Sydney & Town Life
Unlike the bush, the history of city and town life shows a different side of Australia. Relatively rapid growth, especially in the 1860s gold rush era, saw many fine colonial buildings, parks and amusements constructed. Life in our cities reflected England in more ways than one, as up until the 1950s, we still saw ourselves as British, despite the tyranny of distance.
Many tales and curiosities came out of the cities as they grew. Myths too. There are stories of commerce, industry, eccentrics, transport, opportunism and bewilderment.
(Warren Fahey) I am a Sydneysider and make no excuse for the amount of material in this section. Much of it resulted from the focussed research I undertook for a ‘Folklore of Sydney’ project sponsored by the City of Sydney.
I was born in the inner-city suburb of Paddington and, apart from two years in Newcastle, NSW. I have spent all my life as a Sydneysider. My father always said I was ‘Paddington born and Paddington bred, strong in the arm, and weak in the head.” However, he might have got that rhyme by the tail!
In this section, you will also find some studies of other major population areas, including that ‘little cabbage patch over the NSW/Victorian border, Melbourne. I intend to add to the other capital cities.
STREET SELLERS
Sydney must have been a very noisy place when one considers the large number of street vendors that frequented the place from the earliest times – and most of them shouted their ‘cries’ to attract clientele. | |
Saveloys | Throat Cutters was the name given to saveloy sellers who would knife a slit down the saveloy and sprinkle it with vinegar.”What has become of the street cries we used to hear? Where is the muffin man? Where is the young lettuces, young eschalots and watercress? And last, but not least, the saveloy “All hot”? In fancy I hear the cry and likewise certain small voices which follow in the footsteps of the vendor to get that question. “What ya choke ya muther wid? And the reply would quickly come “Hot saveloys“.. From the Old Sydney Column by Old Chum. Truth Newspaper 1919 |
Pies | One pie seller had a little stove set up on his cart not unlike a ship’s portable galley. His street cry was: “Now then young ‘ens, wot’s for you? Tater? Sav’loy? Where’s your brown?“ Melbourne. Paddy’s Market. Bourke St. from The Aust Jnl 1868/69 |
Matches | “Wax matches! Wax matches!” Melbourne. Paddy’s Market. Bourke St. from The Aust Jnl 1868/69 |
Fine Wax Lights | “four boxes for a shilling” Melbourne. Paddy’s Market. Bourke St. from The Aust Jnl 1868/69 |
Oysters | “six pence a plate.” Melbourne. Paddy’s Market. Bourke St. from The Aust Jnl 1868/69 |
Cherries | “Cherry ripe, Cherry ripe, Fresh as daisies and sweet as sugar at tuppence a pound. Nothing finer in the markets. Come and taste ’em I say. As cheap as dirt – sold again!” Melbourne. Paddy’s Market. Bourke St. from The Aust Jnl 1868/69 |
Newspapers | “Daily Age, Daily Argus, Examiner, Star.. one penny. All the latest items by Panama mail – just arrived – all then latest news from Panama and New Zealand. Latest of the week.” Melbourne. Paddy’s Market. Bourke St. from The Aust Jnl 1868/69 |
Cakes | “Fine Banbury cakes and mutton pies. All hot and smoking. All piping hot.” From Sydney Scene 1962 referring to 1828 “the cries are pure cockney.. Perfect in the tune from the deep guttural to the shrill and plaintive cadence”. |
Clothes | Clothes Props: “Clothes’ Props, Cloth Props, Per-rops!”Clothing and general goods “Must be sold – the property of a gen’lman as can’t keep hisself out of the work’us any longer.” “Selling off. Selling off… for the benefit of the poor to keep rich out of the work house” All Sydney calls. Aust Jnl 1867 |
Cress & Prawns | Sydney The Rocks 1910: “Cress and fine salty prawns” from the Mitchell LibraryTravellers arriving at Manly Pier around the turn of the century 1900 would hear: “Fresh cooked ‘arbour prawns. Sixpence a pint.” From Manly Daily 1971 as recalled by Capt Henderson. |
Hot Cross Buns | “One a penny two a penny Hot cross buns Hot cross buns One for your daughters two for your sons Hot cross buns.” Sydney 1850s Cyril Pearl ‘Book of Bacchus’ |
Garden Honey | Street call of Billy Huntingdon who was also known as garden honey: “Garden honey. A shillin’ a bottle. Fine fresh garden honey.” from the Mitchell Library |
Smokes | “A cigar and a light!” from the Mitchell Library |
Daises | Grandma Duffy at paddy’s 1860s: “posies and nice fine roses” from the Mitchell Library |
Soap | “The celebrated soap which will remove stains from all sorts of linen. An invaluable boon to the public – removes kerosene and oil of all sorts.” (Bourke St soap seller) |
Lotteries | Sydney lottery seller” “All Prizes – no blanks – take a chance” 1867 Aust Jnl“Lotteries by a numbered ticket. The duck doesn’t care who wins.” RHS 1916 by Capt Grieves. |
Cakes | DETAILS coming |
Rabbits | Sydney streets: “Rabbits, Rabbits, Raaabits – two for one and sixpence, rabbits” |
Alehouse | “Roll up, Roll up Roll up ladies and gentlemen… great novelties tonight and no extra charge – the same old refreshment – ticket – admission and a glass of the best ale or spirits for sixpence.” From Colonial Life a trip to Spring Creek, Victoria. 1850/60s |
Bell Ringer | The Bell Man was common before the establishment of a government printer. He rang a bell and called out the government orders of the day. Sydney Gazette |
Watchman | The Sydney Watchman called out the hour and “all’s well’ at midnight. He wore a special uniform and carried a long staff (to be used as a baton if necessary). Sydney Gazette |
Town Crier | Town Crier of Sydney in 1839 was named Saville. His is recorded as crying: “Oyez! Oyez! here you peoples that this day a child has been lost in the scrub wearing a blue dress and hat with pink ribbons. Anyone giving information of its whereabouts to the distressed parents will be handsomely rewarded… God save the Queen.” From Old Times Magazine 1903. |
STREET ENTERTAINERS AND BEGGARS OF EARLY AUSTRALIA
Northern Territory Times 14 Aug 1931
Brisbane (By our own Correspondent)
Probably the proximity of the Exhibition has something to, do with the army of street entertainers I encountered in Elizabeth Street the other ‘day. Standing on the comer of Edward, Street, this is what I saw. On one corner two men, both playing cornets with wonderful power; on the opposite a man playing a miniature organ, while beside him stood a bright looking young lad, and I am sure both heartily blessed the cornet men; then on another comer was a tall young man doing his best with a violin cello; and on the other corner was a man playing popular tunes on a gumleaf from which shrill notes sounded high up above the dim. He had the simplest and cheapest instrument, yet he was heard. A little further down Elizabeth Street I came upon an outdoor orchestra of which I am sure no theatre could be ashamed-violins, a cornet, a harp and a trombone all blending in perfect harmony. In Creek Street I passed a blind man who pathetically shook his tin box every now and then, whilst in Adelaide Street I encountered a man who loudly proclaimed the fact that he had no street licence but hoped somebody would throw him a penny. In order to convince his audience that it was worth a small coin he .sat a small brown dog on a case, tied a baby’s bonnet on its head, roughly pushed a cigarette into its mouth, left it there for a few seconds then pulled it oat of the dog’s mouth, placed it in his own and puffed powerful gusts of smoke round, the group Maybe to show that it a real cigarette. Thus it can be seen that it would require a small fortune daily to satisfy the pleadings of all these men and some are genuine, some doubtful and some frauds.
The Sydney Herald 18 Oct 1832
Mary Mahony, with a fine, rich, thick and tangible brogue, that might have been cut with a knife, was charged with being found supping in Kent Street, and entertaining her entertainers with “Oh say not woman’s heart is bought, With gold that empty treasures….”
When the unlucky staff bearer seizing her by the waist, walked her to the lock up. One month to the third class!
The Argus 9 Feb. 1922
Busking for 37 Years – Street Singer’s Earnings.
A ‘busker’, or street singer, stated in the city court yesterday that he was not afraid of heavy work, but that he earned from 4 to 5 pounds a week singing in the street. William H. Smith, another street singers who lives in Latrobe Street, said proudly, “I’ve been a street singer for 37 years. I’m the oldest ‘busker’ about here.”
Smith was charged with having carried liquor about for sale in a public highway.
When Lewis stated how much he earned Mr N. Sonenberg (who defended Smith) exclaimed sharply, “For goodness sake be careful! Don’t you know that there’s such a thing as income tax!”
The Mercury (Hobart) 26 August 1916
Surprise is sometimes expressed that so many itinerant singers and other musicians are allowed to attract crowds in the streets of Sydney. We have the ‘buskers’, the street bands – some of them good fiddlers, hand organs, and other music makers, and they seem to be increasing. One writer, evidently a nervous victim, describes them as ‘pavement pests’. It is quite true that the roving singers are a source of torment; they usually attract crowds that impede the traffic, especially at night, and their organs help to make life miserable, grinding out the most dismal tunes night and day. Men who work in offices over columns of figures are sometime driven to despair. The busker comes along, and gives a curious version of a popular song; as soon as he leaves the spot the street organist takes his place, and he is, perhaps, followed by another gentleman of the same profession. It is a terrible infliction upon the business people, and the authorities should take some steps to deal with it. The street bands are in a different category. They give the public good music, which is heard by this means, increasing an income which musicians find very small in these days.
The Argus 89th June 1899
Street Musician.
In answer to the name of Dominico Caracillo, a very small boy, with a very large accordion, marched into the City Court yesterday and started open eyed at the bench. According to the statements made in court, Caraccillo, filled with dreams of wealth, arrived in Victoria six months ago, and having invested in a very large accordion, followed the example of others of his countrymen, and played music in the streets of Melbourne. But last Tuesday misfortune befell him, for while performing to a large audience in Swanston Street, and thereby obstructing the footpath, Constable Foley approached. In view of Section 3 of the Police Offences Act, the constable did not appreciate the music produced by the accordion , and took the boy to the watch-house. There he was charged with being a neglected child, and still accompanied by his accordion, was placed under care of Miss Sutherland for the night.
The father stated the boy was born in Chile, but the lad said he was a Spaniard.
Mr Panton (to the father) – How much money does the boy bring home every day?
The Father – 6d or one shilling.
Mr Panton – We will make inquiries into this case. In this man’s country begging is a profession, and they think that the same thing can be done here. I am very glad that the police are taking notice of it. I doubt whether the lad is this man’s son, for sometimes these boys are kidnapped.
Argus 16 June 1899
A Street Musician.
Dominico Caracillo, the boy who appeared before the City Court last Thursday and was remanded for a week on the charge of being a neglected child, appeared yesterday, before Mr Paton P.M. and a number of J.P.s The father of the boy was given instructions that the lad must not be allowed to roam about the streets playing his accordion, for it appeared as if the father had been living on the money earned by the boy. Professional begging would not be tolerated in the Colony!
The Argus 11 Dec 1893
A Street Musician Shot Dead.
Wilcannia, Sunday. A most deliberate murder was perpetrated here last night shortly after 8 O’Clock. I appears that a man named Fellowes. Aged between 50 and 60, who gained his livelihood by playing a violin in the street, came into Wilcannia from the White Cliff opal field yesterday at about half-past 7. He began playing his violin in front of the Royal Hotel, Reid Street. After playing there for some time, he proceeded across to the Punt Arms Hotel, where he played for a few minutes. From there he went down to the Cricketer’s Arms Hotel, in the same street. He was playing his violin in the front of the hotel when a son of the hotelkeeper, Myles McGrath, aged about 26, rushed out of the bedrooms with a double barrelled gun and, directing his aim from the door, shot Fellowes in the abdomen. Fellowes immediately cried out, “Murder, murder! My God, I’m shot!” and ran fully 60 yards, holding his violin all the time. He then dropped. He was at once conveyed to the hospital, but expired 10 minutes after his admission.
The police arrested McGrath shortly after the occurrence, He was found lying on the bed in one of the bedrooms in his father’s hotel. On the way to the lock up he admitted having shot Fellowes, and said that he only meant to shoot him in the legs. He further told the police that for several days past he had been ill and unable to eat or sleep, and was being annoyed by drunken men, and was determined to put a stop to it.
The Argus 3 Nov. 1898
A Street Musician’s Death.
Happily it is seldom that any death is recorded with terrible word starvation given as a cause, but in that of a man, whose name is supposed to be Joseph De Leo, a complication of phthisis and insufficient food is believed to have led to death. The dead man, who was an Italian street harpist, had been living at taylor’s lodging house, at 322 Russell Street.
Courier Mail 7 March 1934
STREET MUSIC
Sir,-
For a solid three hours, at least, on Saturday morning a street musician performed outside of the Criterion Hotel in George Street. This was pretty nerve-racking to the tenants of surrounding shops and offices. The usual street noises, to say nothing of rowdy shop proprietors who yell the price and quality of their wares, is surely sufficient without a musical (?) instrument being played for hours at a stretch. Of course, street musicians must earn a living the same as the rest of us, but could not their efforts at one particular stand be limited to, say, half an hour?
Think of all those other folks who are missing what we have ceased to appreciate after half an hour or so!! I am, sir, &c., “FRAZZLED.”
SMH 28 May 1859
PROFANE SONGS IN THE PUBLIC STREETS. To the Editor of the Sydney Morning Herald,
Sir,-About a fortnight ago you inserted the letter of a correspondent, complaining of a profane parody on the Lord’s Prayer having been allowed to be sung in a public street. He was probably not aware that he might have given the offender into custody at once under the authority of the Vagrant Act, 15 Victoria, No. 4. Allow me therefore to request your insertion of the 5th section of that Act, which is as follows :
“Any person who shall sing any obscene song or ballad, or write or draw any indecent or obscene word, figure, or representation, or use any profane, indecent, or obscene language, in any public street,
words in a public street shall be conveyed before any justice of the peace; and that such offender being convicted in a summary way he or she shall forfeit any sum not exceeding five pounds, and in default of immediate payment shall be committed to the common gaol or house of correction for any period not exceeding three calendar months.” LEX.
Mention of Wild Colonial Boy and Ten Thousand Miles away being sung – The Mercury, 20 Nov. 1889
Mention of the WCB – On the eve of the fight Mrs Jones gave her boy 6d to sing the WCB. Brisbane Courier Mail 27 May 1881
Beggars and Homelessness
I live in Potts Point, a suburb which includes Kings Cross. It is also where the Wayside Chapel was established many years ago as an outreach service of the Uniting Church. The Wayside, originally run by Ted Noffs and now by an equally committed down to earth christian minister, Graham Long, does a remarkable job in assisting Sydney’s homeless and disturbed. Homelessness is a fact of life and a major social issue that needs understanding. Historical accounts show that were not always that compassionate. WF
SMH 18 April 1904
Fanny Fisher, 53, pleaded guilty at the Central Court on Saturday before Mr Payton H.M. on a charge of begging in George Street. A sentence of four day’s imprisonment with hard labour was inflicted.
SMH 20 March 1906
Thomas Robs, a tinker, convicted before G H Smithers S.M. at Central Police Court, upon a charge of begging alms on Elizabeth Street, was sentenced to 14 days imprisonment.
SMH 19 Tuesday 1909
An elderly man, named Edward Fahey, was yesterday at the Paddington Police Court, sentenced to seven day’s hard labour for begging alms in New South Head Road, on Jan 17th. Defendant had been begging from house to house, and also from persons in the street.
SMH 11 Feb 1909
Walter Hawkins, a fish hawker, was charged at the Water Police Court, before Mr Donaldson S.M., with begging alms in O’Connell Street. Constable Lennox stated that on Sunday night about 8 O’Clock he was on duty when he saw accused accost several persons, one of whom handed him something. When accused of begging in the streets Hawkins denied having done so. Accused, who said he only asked for matches, was sent to goal for seven days.
The Advertiser sat 25 May 1912
White-haired and meek-looking, nobody would have suspected that William Nancarrow, who stood in the dock at the Adelaide Police Court on Friday to answer a charge of having begged alms, had as many as 146 convictions against him. For years he has been constantly under the notice of the police, and on Thursday was arrested for having begged for coppers in Hindley Street. He had accosted people with the request for a few pence, because he said he was starving. A penalty of two months’ imprisonment was imposed.
The Argus. Tues 13 1911
Notes to Boys. Donald McDonald.
Begging boys. About the gates of many of the leading football grounds in Melbourne I notice every Saturday will be noticed a number of small boys,whose usual appeal is “Give us a penny, mister. I want threepence to get into the match.” Many of them seem to be well dressed and properly cared for, and their appeal amuses most men. This is a very bad and demoralising habit to encourage in young boys, and the football clubs apparently encourage them by charging threepence for children. Everything is xxx that comes to the football net. They would do a much better service to the boys , as far as their future and their character is concerned, by keeping them out of the grounds altogether. Every boy ought to be encouraged to play some sort of game for himself rather than to become a mere ‘barracker’ in sport.
The Argus Wed 9 March 1887
A begging vagrant. At the Collingwood Police Court yesterday, a blind phrenologist, from Sydney, named George Smith, was charged with vagrancy. He had been in the habit of going around begging and hawking, but when he got food instead of money he would throw it away. He was a well-educated man, and made a plausible defence, but was ordered one year’s imprisonment.
The Argus 12 June 1896
Three children, one of them just able to walk, were brought before the City Police Court yesterday with being neglected. They were begging in Collins Street when arrested. Two of them – Minnie Henley, aged eight, and James Henley, aged three – had been deserted by their father, and the mother, who was in court, stated that the girl Minnie used occasionally to bring money home. The reason why she had not been sent to school was because she had no boots. The arresting constable stated that Mrs Henley’s husband had a pension from the Imperial Government, and his whereabouts might be ascertained from the Pension’s Office. Mrs Godfrey, the mother of May Godfrey, aged five years, pleased extreme poverty, and the little money that the child brought home was very acceptable, and kept them in food.
Mr Panyon P.M. said he was pleased to see the police were giving attention to the matter of mendicancy in the streets, and if they kept their eyes open they would find plenty of instances of this begging nuisance. On the previous afternoon in Collins-street, near the Block Arcade, he had observed an old woman begging from every foot passenger she met, and no notice was taken of her by the police.
The children were remanded for a week in order that the police should make further inquiry concerning them.
SMH Wed 30 April 1844 (From Chambers’ Journal.)
Perhaps no social feature of our country has been more changed since George 1V was King, than that of begging. In my early days, this set of people, generally old and disabled: some went on crutches, some sailed along in things like bowls, a small select number were carried on from door to door in hand-barrows, and a precious set of tyrannical old men of the sea these were by the way: for, if a servant grumbled at their weight, or stopped too long to rest from it, they never scrupled to make hearty use of both tongue and stick. nor were they ever known to give any thanks for the trouble taken with them. There were, indeed, a very few of a respectable sort of beggars, who came half us volunteer guests, and were of such delicacy and propriety of behavior that they frequently sat with the master and mistress. Generally, however, the beggars former days were a poor, humble, and despicable sort of people, trusting to their very wretchedness for a means of exciting the compassion of the public. Now, when everything has been so much improved, begging has been improved too, only in a far greater degree than anything else. In fact, begging has taken its place amongst the political and economic arrangements of our land. ¡ The greatest people resort to it, and the most wonderful things are done by it.
It is very remarkable how a science of such capabilities should have been allowed to slumber so long in an undeveloped state amongst the mere outcasts of society. Some one has remarked of printing, that it remained as Guttenberg made it for the first four centuries. But then took a sudden start, and went through a series of splendid improvements, terminating in the first cylinder machine, all in the space of thirty years. Somewhat similar has been the history of begging A poor sniveling employment for the first 6000 years of the world’s history, but at length expanded to one of magnificent system and detail in the course of about half an ordinary life-time. Both facts form striking proof’s of the condition of the human mind down to a recent period. Men dreamed long ago. They are now awake. There lies the difference. It would be absurd, however, to suppose that begging is oven yet a pet feet science, or generally understood. It is going on well, but it is not at all what it might be made in the hands of thoroughly skilled and active men, women, and young ladies; and there is a vast portion of society who know as little of it as they do of printing. With a view to promote the advance of the science, I beg to submit a few of its fundamental principles to general consideration. “
The first great principle concerned in begging is, that one has always a chance of obtaining a thing by seeking it. Few things fall swoop into one’s mouth like Ben Tibb’s friends. Most things require to be asked for, sought for, or grasped at; but when this trouble is taken about them, they are very apt to be got. So truly is this the case, that, theoretically speaking, there is scarcely anything in this world which may not be had for the asking that is to say, had in some sort of way or degree the sleeve if not the gown.
Many rebuffs, many failures, much grumbling and groaning, may be encountered in the course of the requisition; but some share of success will also be sure to accrue. The world, let my readers depend upon it, is divided among those who seek it. Nor is it, after all, difficult to sea how this should be; first, the seeker is the man ready to take, the catches what occurs, while others not on the outlook let things pass. Then it is far more pleasant for any one who gives, to give to one who seeks, than to one who does not seek, for he is sure of being appreciated, j and is always getting quit of a trouble in the person of the petitioner. Modest merit, sitting, quietly behind backs, ought, no doubt, to be encouraged; everybody owns that; but then | modest merit can wait, and does not get angry | for being put off a little longer. So even let the pestilent fellow have what he wants and be done with him, and thus he takes the spoils of fortune, whose only claim upon them is his making his ‘claim so pertinacious; while simple worth sits quietly by, with only the empty reward of good opinion. A second great principle is the habit of the courtesies of society. An honest unthinking gentleman, who pays his bills, read the news-papers every day, goes occasionally out to dinner, and performs in a decent way all the other duties of a respectable person, is informed in his dressing-room, between ten and eleven one morning, that two ladies have called for him, and are sitting in the parlour. As soon as he can get himself properly trimmed, he goes down to see them, and finds two very gentle-women-like persons in possession of his two arm-chairs, they rise at his entrance-he greets them, and desires them to be seated. The beauty of the morning, and the unpleasantness of the weather of Thursday last week, are fully admitted on both sides. He thinks they may be wishing to inquire respecting the character of a servant, or something of a similar nature : no matter, he is by habit a gentleman, and of course converses civilly. At length, after a few remarks on miscellaneous subjects, one of them draws forth a book from her muff or reticule, and addressing him on the merits of a scheme for furnishing shoes and stockings to the women of the Blackfeet Indians, begs he will have the goodness to subscribe to it.
Now, really, he thinks this is a most preposterous affair; but on the other hand, these poor ladies have no personal interest in it; on the contrary, under the pure influence of charitable feelings, they are taking a great deal of trouble, and exposing themselves to many collisions of a disagreeable nature, in order to promote an end which they think good. He cannot, then, but still treat them kindly, however annoying he may think their application. He therefore enters into an amicable argument with them, and, in the politest terms, endeavors to excuse himself from a subscription; there are feet requiring shoes and stockings nearer home. He has many things to subscribe for ; only yesterday, lie put down his name for a sovereign to the three burnt-out families. He really cannot afford much in these days of reduced interest. Ho had a monument last week; has just himself been getting up a testimonial for a friend, and is looking for the soup kitchen ever day. How can he be expected in these circumstances to disburse to the Blackfeet ? Well, they hear his objections, but they never appear one whit affected by them: for always, after allowing that what he says is true, they immediately glide back to the matter of their book, and at him again. At length it becomes a fair matter of calculation. A crown buys him off genteelly, the alternative is coining to a harsh or rude point with these fair petitioners. Being a man of courtesy, he prefers keeping up his usual | tone with them, strangers as they are ; and so he twitches out his five shillings with the best grace he may. They then rise to take leave; he sees them to the door; good morning on I both sides; all ends well. The Blackfeet, the shoe sand stockings, and the gentleman has preserved his self-respect. The whole affair shows how forcible manner the imposture of good genteel appearances in begging. A really poor object, half fed, half dead, half soaked, (to use Burns’s vigorous words)-gets only a copper, though he would require at least three or four, to purchase him a supper and a bed, and keep him off the streets for the night. But two well-dressed Indians are quite another thing, and their object becomes almost vanishing beyond the horizon of human sympathies. With them polite observance must be kept up, while a growl is but a proper accompaniment to the copper. In this respect, begging is like business in general. The bare-footed waitress of a w ay side ale-house is well rewarded with a penny; but the elegantly dressed attendant of a third rate hotel would be underpaid with a shilling. The dross and undress in these matters is every-thing’, and this brings us to the
Third principle, which is simply that faculty of our sentimental system called love of approbation, or desire of standing well with, our neighbours. People in general do not like to be thought shabby, or even suspected of shabbiness ; therefore they give. They like to see their names in a respectable subscription list, and that, for a respectable sum, and therefore they give, and that liberally, in comparison with their means. The application is always felt as a thing involving two interests -first, that of the object of the application; second and chief, the personal feelings of the party applied to. What will be expected of me ? What will look fair as my donation ? These are questions asked almost before the necessity of the case is thought of. Even Byron, with all his enthusiasm for that Greece in whose cause he lost his life, wrote to a friend that, with regard to the philhellenic subscription, he did not think he could get off under four thousand pounds. There are, indeed, some of a sufficiently stoical constitution to be able to resist all weak impulses : these are the men who ” never give upon principle,” but like the wise in all ages, they are but a limited exception to a great rule. You are tolerably sure of a man when you can bring him under the compulsion of his wish to stand well with the (world, or even the individual applicant. Lastly, there is such a thing as a favorable disposition to particular objects calling for contribution. Each man has some bent or prejudice on behalf of which ho will yield cash, when the application is properly made. Every man may be said to have his mendicable side call it his weak one or not as you choose. Some are tender of heart toward widows and orphans ; others delight in local improvements, and will subscribe for pieces of causewaying, when their hearts would be found already paved if attacked on any softer subject. Oppressed patriots interest some, they will bleed for nobody who has not been tried for h s life, or suffered at least a year’s imprisonment. It is necessary for a petitioner to know the parties who have predilections in behalf of the matter in question : for if he were to speak of widows and children to a patriot, or of captive martyrs to a man who only delights in getting streets widened, and pavement laid down where no pavement was before, or only a bad pavement, lie would probably be wasting his charms upon the deaf adder. On the contrary, when he assails the proper persons, all is easy and smooth, and he accomplishes his task in a surprisingly | short space of time.
Not that he should be scrupulous in addressing only favourably disposed parties, if there be need to go further; for even amongst the disaffected ho has always the first three principles to come and go upon; and possibly upon one of these he may strike down his bird; but if certainty is true, that it is by far the kindliest work when you have the prepossession of the party in accordance with I your object, it is taking things with the grain. By favour of one or other of these principles, or of all together, it is wonderful how potent a thing is begging. Few persons have, as yet, I the faintest idea of it; it is a great power known only to, and practised by, some scattered individuals’, who themselves, not with Handing their success, are, perhaps, not fully aware of the virtue which resides in it. Almost fear to go further in developing the philosophy of this great subject, like the wife of Swanky Bean, the Forfarshire cannibal, who said that if people were generally aware of the delicious nature of human flesh, they would all wish to eat of it, and of nothing else. It seems much to be apprehended that the pursuance of the mediatory principle becoming better known, we shall find more persons taking advantage of it, and the world made almost intolerable ; the time for such fears is past, and the only hope for those who at present do not beg is to begin to beg too. It seems as if we must all be beggars together, merely to stand on equal terms with our neighbours.
On this ground, it cannot be anything but right and generally understood, as by no other means can any one cope with and defend himself from those around him ; and clearly, when once it comes to a fair stand-up fight of box against box, book against book, we may all expect to be computable once more. A man will then take his subscription paper with him when he walks out, as he takes his umbrella or great coat, or a gentlemen long ago took a pistol or bludgeon in their pockets. It will be his deeds and his safety and his distinction; young ladies in bonnets and veils cruising about, book in muff, for money to furnish school books; the slave children of South Carolina will come to know that such and such a gentleman has one for a silver cup to the chairman of the county committee for the fox hounds, and will give him a wide berth accordingly. People will come to have a respectful dread of each other’s ruled paper blunderbusses, and none will then be-come prey but the silly fools who have not the sense or wit to take the trouble to keep weapons offensive and defensive of the like nature. Viewing the matter in this light, I believe I am doing nothing but good service to mankind in impressing upon their, the great power of begging, and instilling into them a knowledge of its fundamental principle. They may be assured that it is a science as yet only in its infancy. Thirty years ago, it thought of no-thing above copper. It afterwards rose through silver to bank notes.
Now it collects its hundred« and thousands, or occasionally, by way of a great stack of work its hundreds of thousands Once it was a solitary ragged vagrant; then it became a single, lady or gentleman; now it is a regiment. But begging may yet be mi occupation for an army, a crusade, and for hundreds of thousands it may yet gather its millions. Only organise a proper force, and it might rival taxation in its results. There may yet be a central office in London, for a mendacity mission, which overspreads the world, collecting alike from the Esquimaux and the Terra del Fuegans, the Japanese and the Kaffirs. The way is clearly open for these and other such operations, for man is not only a begging animal. He is formed by nature to give to him who strenuously seeks; to give for the sake of fair reputation, and for the sake of doing good. He therefore lies fairly exposed to the begging power, ready to yield it the richest crops when-ever the proper means are taken, just like a field which has as yet been in a state of nature, but could give seventy tons of turnips per acre if properly tilled and” drilled. Some inconvenience may be experienced by individuals, while things are going on to this pass, for some will naturally be more ready than others to take up the new weapons; but at length all will be fully armed and accoutered, and of course, on a perfect equality in point of mendacity redoubtableness; so that no one will have anything to complain of beyond his neighbours, while the funds so realised will be producing effects of a kind heretofore undreamt of, for the general benefit of mankind.
The Mercury – Hobart 20 Nov. 1906
A CONCERTINA CONCERT.
RECORD BAND CONTEST. !
At the Crystal Palace, Sydneham, on the occasion of the National Band Festival early in October last, over 200 bands waged musical war, representing six thousand performers, and prizes amounting to £2,000 were awarded. The concertina competition attracted at least 4,000 “persons. A great many people expected to eo amused. The concertina, being associated with Italian beggars and Margate excursion trains, has long been regarded as a comical instrument. The effect produced by twenty concertinas, modulated in tones ranging horn those of soprano comets to double basses, was extremely beautiful and astonished the audience.
UP ON YOUR SOAPBOX, JOHNNY
© Warren Fahey
“Come on Johnny, spin us anotheree.”
“Shut up, ya mug!”
The Sydney Domain Speaker’s Corner covered the entire park and, in its heydey, especially in the first seven decades of the twentieth century, attracted massive crowds. Its history is the history of Sydney’s ratbags, revolutionaries and rabblerousers. Established in 1878 in the spirit of the international free speech movement its original spruikers let off steam, primarily between the long-feuding Catholics and Protestants. It was a Rafferty’s Rules free-for-all with hatted speakers (nearly everyone wore a hat) elevated on tree-stumps, step ladders and soapboxes. It wasn’t the origin of the colloquial expression ‘mad as a hatter’, but it certainly applied.
As an inquisitive kid, the son of a paid-up member of the Rationalist’s Association, I spent far too many Sunday afternoons at the Domain in the late nineteen sixties and early seventies. These were wild days where the speakers pulled huge crowds. Victor Zammit and John Webster were the big draws: ranting and raving on everything from the art of oratory to sexuality. These were no holds barred freak shows where members of the audience would scream abuse, attempt to take over and, quite often, perform weird dances to a music no one else could hear. It wasn’t unusual for Zammit to atract crowds of 2000 or more. (Now this is spooky – he once chaired a meeting at the Wayside Chapel Theatre in Kings Cross where John Howard spoke). John Webster, a real crowd pleaser and eccentric, ruled his audience with outrageous comment and barbed humour challenging his audience “on religion, free love and the individuals inalienable right to be kinky”. He declared himself to be one of Sydney’s landmarks, along with the Harbour Bridge and Botanical Gardens, and demand his audience purchase his weekly newsletter. Unlike many speakers these two men knew how to project their voices, command an audience and hold it. They both frequently lectured their audiences on how to be an orator! Zammit, who often spoke on spiritualism, human rights and psychic phenomenon.
Two of the weirdest Domain speakers were fancy dressed. William Chidley, a regular speaker between 1911 and 1916, dressed in nothing but a short white Roman-styled tunic, was imposingly tall with long hair and flowing beard and spoke about sexuality as he flogged his book The Answer. Recommending vegetarianism, fresh air, sunlight and unrestrictive clothing, and criticizingmoneymaking and class distinction, he postulated a ‘correct’ method of intercourse that would ‘take place only in the spring … and between true lovers only’. Chidley was one of the Domain’s true characters. In the 1960s ‘The Wizard’, Ian Channell, also dressed for the Domain with pre-Hogwart’s cape and hat, as he blew bubbles to attract the crowd, to listen to his thoughts on ‘the fun revolution’.
Speaker’s Corner started on a serious note at as an outlet for the pent-up steam between Catholics and Protestants that originated with the First Vatican Council of 1869. It was the Orange against the Green and even as late as the 1960s a member of the Loyal Order of Orangemen, and Red-Haired Harry, a Plymouth Brethren, would step up on his box to “open our eyes to the devil Roman church”. He spoke in a strong Northern Irish accent laden with vitriol and then sing hymns from the Believer’s Hymnbook. Another Christian drum-beater was simply known at all as ‘Bluey the bible basher’, so named because of his high blood pressure that, whenever he got heckled, rushed to his face turning it an explosive dark red, as he thumped his bible. Whenever this happened, and it was as regular as the GPO clock, the audience would shout, “Blood pressure, blood pressure, blood pressure.” which only exasperated the situation. To Bluey’s repeated cry of “What if you died tonight – where would you go?” the response was always the same, “The morgue!”
One of the most-loved of the Domain speakers was Sister Ada Green and her peculiar flock who brought fire and brimstone to her corner near Art Gallery Road. They all had the dowdy, sour-faced look of people you wouldn’t want to share eternity with. A small woman who always wore a flowered hat in the shape of a CWA sponge cake, Sister Ada would joyously shout out ‘Praise Jes-us” to which the well-trained crowd would immediately follow with “And pass the ammunition”.“I can save you!” cried Sister Ada, to which the inevitable response would come, “Can yer save me a pretty one?” Whenever she called out “Christ Jesus” the audience would respond with an equally loud “Kraft Cheeses”. This was real old-time ‘saving souls for Jesus’ religion and the interjections were nearly always boisterous and good-natured. Whenever one of her ‘flock’ spoke the audience would groan in mock agony until Sister Ada started thumping her ever-ready tambourine.
The atheists were also regulars at the Domain with cries of “We don’t believe in a creator, or Jesus Christ, no church, no free taxi rides and no heebee-geebee”. There were others too, notably the anarchists, Dr Xarus Sphinx, and later, Bill Dwyer with his booming voice; the socialist Ann Duff; the ‘Bulgarian anarchists simply known as Jack G. and George H, Angela ‘The Poetess’ – and there were rationalists, communists and even a man who spoke nothing but Esperanto. There were regular faces in the crowds too but none so visible as a tall, thin, bald-shaven neo-nazi named Ross ‘The Skull’ May who terrorised speakers and audiences up to the 1970s when he was arrested and jailed in 1972 for bashing a journalist. Other familiar faces were of ASIO special branch officers who were as conspicuous as a pumpkin in a butcher’s shop.
One of my favourites of the sixties was a speaker we knew as ‘The last of the Wobblies’. I never did record his name but as a young student of labour history I was fascinated by his theories on how the Wobblies could save the world. There was something sad in this old socialist soldier’s fight as he yelled: “No God, no flag, no master”. Whenever he cried out “I.W.W.” the crowds would call back an emphatic “I.W.W. – It Won’t Work”. Fifty years earlier speakers from the International Workers of the World had been banned from speaking in the Domain, and some of its members, known as the ‘Sydney Twelve’, goaled for conspiracy in 1916, when they refused to obey the State Labor Government’s ruling. One of these men was Donald Grant, the leader of the I.W.W. in Sydney, and a regular Domain speaker. Grant eventually left the I.W.W. and, in 1923, joined the ALP where he held seats in both sate and federal government.
The Domain was also a rallying point for WW1 conscription campaigns and the final stop for the 1915 Billy Hughes recruiting marches that saw thousands of countrymen tramp from Nowra (The Waratah March) and Wagga Wagga (The Kangaroo March) and from Gilgandra (The Cooee March). The size of the Cooee March was so large it stretched down to Martin Place and Sydney Town Hall. The Domain was also the rally point for Australia’s longest running anti-conscription, anti-war campaign – during the invasion of Vietnam of the sixties and seventies.
Today Speaker’s Corner is hardly audible with a couple of spruikers addressing an ever-dwindling audience of homeless and strollers. Maybe retired Prime Minister and now a professional speaker, John Howard, should bring his soapbox and liven things up a bit? I think not.
NEW SOUTH WALES (NSW) – SYDNEY – CORNSTALK
THE GARDEN PALACE, SYDNEY
The formal opening of the first International Exhibition ever held in the Southern hemisphere may have lacked the gorgeous surroundings with which such events are usually celebrated in the leading European capitals, but it was none the less a brilliant success, especially when the numerous difficulties experienced by those having charge of the arrangements are taken into consideration. Only a few days previously the interior of the Exhibition Building was crowded with packing cases of every size and shape, which caused the place to resemble more the interior of an English railway goods station rather than that of a temple devoted to the glorification of the industrial arts. Nowhere was the slightest attempt at order apparent; it was simply a state of chaos, and to make matters worse there appeared no diminution in the onward flow of exhibits. Day after day, from “dewy morn till dusky eve” an endless procession of loaded drays slowly passed through the Macquarie Street gates, to the great bewilderment and even consternation of the officials, who found themselves driven almost to their wits’ end to obtain space for the various packages.
But “where there’s a will there’s a way.” The fiat went forth that the Exhibition should be opened at the time appointed, and that every exhibitor should be compelled to do his duty, all protests notwithstanding, and assist in making a respectable show. The effect
was magical. In a single day the Colonial and British Courts appeared completely transformed, the labour of weeks having become concentrated within the space of a few hours. The rapidity with which empty packing cases were hurried out of the Palace, the walls made bright with gay-coloured carpets, and unsightly unoccupied spaces concealed by screens and flags, has never been paralleled. It enabled the Exhibition to be opened with due ceremony at the hour arranged, thereby showing to all that “impossible” was a word unknown at the Antipodes. The moral effect of this in Europe will be great. . . . True, there remains much to be done before the display of industrial arts can be pronounced perfect, but every day brings us nearer and nearer to the welcome hour when the finishing touch shall have been given, and the Exhibition be declared complete.
Long before then, however, the civilised world will have expressed its opinion respecting the indomitable pluck and energy which has enabled a colony, “the youngest born of nations”, to fearlessly emulate the efforts of States whose populations are numbered by millions, and whose industrial history extends far back into the remote past. At one stride we have joined the great brotherhood of peoples. We are a colony only in name. The leading powers of the world have recognised our commercial and political importance by sending their ships of war to rendezvous in the glittering waters of Port Jackson. The words of the Governor-General declaring the Garden Palace open to the people have been flashed to the most distant lands, and everywhere—north, east, west, and south—the name of the busy and prosperous capital of New South Wales has become as “familiar as a household word”,
and to think that all this has been the work of a few months! It is almost incredible; but when once the Australian colonist makes up his mind to do a thing he does it. His motto is “thorough”. He believes in labour, and is not ashamed of being seen working in his shirt-sleeves. Therein is to be found the secret of his success; while others were talking he was toiling. “He who would win must work,” says the old motto, and its truth has been proved by the unsurpassed success of the splendid industrial exposition to which visitors are flocking from all parts of the world. …
It is difficult to restrain one’s enthusiasm when it is remembered that history furnishes no similar instance of a country which, less than a century previously was the undisturbed haunt of the savage, successfully rivalling, and in some respects surpassing, the grandest efforts of lands whose names have become the landmarks of human progress. Well may we shout “Advance Australia”; for we are progressing at a rate which even the most go-ahead Yankee must envy.
The “Illustrated Sydney News”, 4 October 1879
THE SYDNEY EXHIBITION (King of the Cannibal Isles) From east and west, and. south and north, Past-haste the visitors set forth To face the winds and water’s wrath— And mal-de-mer’s condition! All who can raise the cash to go— Tom, Dick, and. Harry, high and. low— To Sydney now in numbers flow To see the Exhibition. Our Governor has led the way— Sir William’s gone, respects to pay To Loftus, for a holiday He’s taken intermission; ‘While Sammy once more rules the roast— A man well fitted for the post— He doesn’t care to join the host At Sydney’s Exhibition. And J. M. Wendt, who sent a case, Of goldsmith’s work immense to grace The show in South Australia’s place, Designed for competition; Has started on his briny trip, All cares of trade for once let slip, Resolved in purse this time to dip For Sydney’s Exhibition. Old Graham Berry, not content With all the public money spent On Embassy, when he was sent Home, with a big petition; Intends next week to shut up shop, All Legislative brawling stop, And rig himself in suit of slop, For Sydney’s Exhibition. Turks, Jews, and Chinamen all flock To land, and look at Mort’s famed dock, Or eat a native ” Sydney rock.” In spite of prohibition. From. men on strike, John means to go, And sport his pigtail at the Show; While Melbourne sends Kong Meng & Co. To Sydney’s Exhibition. They say that lodgings can’t be got, Unless you like to pay the shot Of charges made uncommon hot; Not even the petition Of homeless families avails, Or sleepy children’s horrid, wails; And lots are roosting on the rails Bound Sydney’s Exhibition. Well, let us hope they’ll all enjoy Their trip, with nothing to annoy; And that the host of sights won’t cloy, Or pall by repetition; While we, who forced at home to stay, Without a chance to get away, Read in the papers day by day Of Sydney’s Exhibition. Some explanations are necessary to explain the cast. J M Wendt – Adelaide Silversmith (royal patronage) |
Lowe Kong Meng – 1833-1888Merchant and Chinese community leader.
A popular and enlightened leader in Melbourne’s Chinese community, Kong Meng supervised Chinese clubs, settled disputes among his countrymen, helped them to find work and urged them to respect the British flag, law and justice. In 1859 he initiated a petition against the annual residence tax of £4 on every Chinese resident. He and two other Chinese leaders, Cheong Cheok Hong and Louis Ah Mouy, wrote a pamphlet in 1879 on The Chinese Question in Australia, 1878-1879, presenting the Chinese case on immigration restrictions. One of the main arguments was that the British government should apply the 1860 Peking Treaty to allow Chinese migrants to enter British territories as it gave reciprocal access to Britishers to enter China. In 1887 with other leading Chinese in Melbourne he helped to organize the Victorian Chinese petition to the two visiting Chinese commissioners, General Wong Yung Ho and U Tsing, against anti-Chinese immigration restriction laws. During the 1888 anti-Chinese campaigns in both New South Wales and Victoria, Kong Meng again took an active part in protesting against anti-Chinese legislation.
Despite his attitude towards the immigration issue, Kong Meng was far from unpopular and was elected by the Victorian government as a commissioner for the Melbourne Exhibitions in 1880 and 1888. Contemporary Australian writers described him as ‘cultured’, ‘superior’, ‘influential’ and ‘highly esteemed’, a gentleman with an ‘exceedingly generous disposition’ who ‘gave liberally to churches and public charities, without respect to creed and denomination’. His leadership of the Chinese community in Victoria was also recognized by Emperor T’ung Ch’ih, who conferred on him the title of mandarin of the blue button, civil order, in 1863.
Sir Graham Berry – 1822-1904 Speaker: 1894-1897 Legislative Assembly: 1861-1865, 1869-1886, 1892-1897
Berry was Speaker between 1894 and 1897, at the end of a long and tempestuous political career and at a time when his powers were failing. He had been born near London and emigrated to Victoria with his wife in 1852. Initially he established himself as a storekeeper and wine and spirits merchant in South Yarra, but soon became a prominent radical speaker arguing for the reform of the distribution of wealth and power in society. His parliamentary career began in 1861 when he won the Legislative Assembly seat of East Melbourne, which he retained until 1865. During this period he was a prominent radical and protectionist.
The Garden Palace was a large purpose-built exhibition building constructed to house the Sydney International Exhibition (1879). It was designed by James Barnet and was constructed at a cost of 191,800 Pounds in only eight months – largely due to the special importation from England of electric lighting which enabled work to be carried out around-the-clock.
A reworking of London’s Crystal Palace, it is visually similar in many respects to the later Royal Exhibition Building in Melbourne; the Sydney building consisted of three turreted wings meeting beneath a central dome. Sydney’s first hydraulic lift was contained in the north tower. The building was sited at what is today the southwestern end of the Royal Botanic Gardens (although at the time it was built it occupied land that was outside the Gardens). It was constructed primarily from timber, which was to assure its complete destruction when engulfed by fire in the early morning of September 22, 1882.
The only extant remains of the Garden Palace are its carved sandstone gateposts and wrought iron gates, located on the Macquarie Street entrance to the Royal Botanical Gardens.[1] A 1940s-era sunken garden and fountain featuring a statue of Cupid marks the former location of the Palace’s dome. The only artifact from the International Exhibition to survive the fire – a carved graphite statue of an elephant, from Ceylon – is on exhibit at the Powerhouse Museum. WF (with thanks to Wikipedia)
HOLIDAYS ON THE HARBOUR
On holidays Sydney Harbour is indeed a sight. Every available craft that will float in water, with or without baling, is chartered for the occasion. Steamers crowded with passengers ply to and fro to the many piers on the harbour, and up the Parramatta and Lane Cove rivers. Others take huge picnic parties, consisting often of all the hands employed in a large industrial or commercial concern with their families, to some landing place convenient for an organised festivity of that kind. There are races for rowing-boats, and races for sailing boats, without end. Indeed, the boats, with and without sails, are like the sand on the sea-shore for numbers. I If there is a breeze, the water on the rivers and less exposed bays is clouded with canvas. Every form of sail is to be seen; often the small boats have so many sails ingeniously arranged in all sorts of unexpected places, that there is little else but sail to be seen, and they look like so many white feathers skimming over the surface of the water. When a good breeze blows, as one of them expressed it, “We do go scoot’n’ along,
I can assure you.” “Scoot’n’ ” certainly expresses the way they go. One thinks of the sharks of which there are plenty, and shudders.
Ernest Moon in “Blackwood’s Magazine”, March 1888
Speakers Corner
The story of Speaker’s Corner at the Domain, Sydney, offers a fascinating parade of characters, many could be defined as ‘eccentric’. What drives a person to stand on a soapbox and sprout forth with their views? In most cases the men and women who have entertained the Sunday afternoon crowds since the 1870s, have been single issue speakers – talking (and sometimes shouting) about politics, anti war, socialism, religion, sex and every other subject imaginable. Some speakers, in fact the most successful, have been broad issue speakers. John Webster was such a speaker. He entertained audiences, often as large as 3000, as he told them about the (from his perspective) workings of government, churches and society. He was a questioner. He was also very funny and a dab hand at responding to hecklers. He loved nothing better than heckling the hecklers. Webster, and he was universally known by that one name, became a Domain institution for about twenty years. He also sold his newsletter haranguing his audience to “pay up or shut up”. Usually invigorated by the afternoon of speaking, he also took a large percentage of his crowd to the Wayside Chapel in Kings Cross, where he would continue his Sunday ‘service’.
One of the Speaker’s Corner favourites was Jack Bradshaw who described himself as the ‘Last of the Bushrangers’. He had, in fact, had a few encounters with the law and technically could have been a bushranger. What he did have was a vivid imagination for he claimed he had met most of NSWs leading bushrangers – knew them personally – including Fred ‘Thunderbolt Ward, Ben Hall and Frank Gardiner. He certainly knew a lot about bushrangers and wrote a decent book about their exploits (and his own), which he sold whenever he spoke in public. Chidley was another early and famous speaker who flogged pamphlets whenever he spoke. Dressed in a Greco Roman toga and sandals, he sold ‘The Answer’ – a booklet about what he described as ‘natural sex’. It was definitely an unusual approach to sex and, for many, scandalous. Such forbidden stories and views guaranteed a large audience whenever sh spoke.
In 2023 the Sydney media went a little crazy after City of Sydney Councillor Linda Scott, said there are about five times as many statues of birds as women in city council public places.
Another councillor described Sydney’s public art as “sausage party” amid a campaign to balance gender representation among the city’s public statues. There are just six public statues of women in the city of Sydney, including two of Queen Victoria and one of saint Mary MacKillop.
Prime candidates for statues would be pioneer feminists Louisa Lawson (Henry’s mom), Faith Bandler, Rose Scott and Jessie Lorimer.
Speaker’s Corner still exists and can be found directly opposite the Art Gallery of NSW. Go down and have a listen or an argument!
There is a documentary on this site which gives a full history of the Domain, including the Speaker’s Corner.
Australians colloquially refer to a trip to the lavatory as ‘going to the dunny’. They also say ‘going to the John’, ‘the bog’, ‘the outhouse’, ‘the shed up the back’ ‘visit the smallest room in the house’, and ‘the shit house’ (sometimes described simply as ‘shouse’. On their arrival they ‘point Percy at the porcelain’ (Barry Humphries), ‘have a slash’, ‘have a piss’, ‘do number one or two’ (two being rhyming slang for ‘poo’), ‘take a crap’, ‘shake the wife’s best friend’. A visit to the toilet is also referred to as ‘going to the dike’ or ‘the loo’ or ‘going to the can’ – however such use is limited to the toilet block being used as a urinal. Dike was first documented in 1923 ‘Le Slang’
A dunny is essentially a toilet out the back of a house or public building, never inside. In the nineteenth and the first half of the twentieth century, most Australian houses had the lavatory strategically placed at the rear of their house, and usually in the garden. It was usually a pit or can toilet and, understandably smelly, which, obviously, was a good reason to build it separate from the house.
The word dunny appears to come from the French word Dunegan meaning privy – Dunnakin.
The first Australian print reference was in 1952. T. A. G. Hungerford in ‘The Ridge & the River’: “Right now there might be a Shinto under every bush, and me stuck out like a dunny in a desert.”
The outhouse building gained a reputation as being identifiably Australian – Paul Hogan, the Australian comedian, was once described as being as ‘Australian as a slab off a dunny door.”
Dunnies came in all shapes and sizes and are now considered an important part of our architectural heritage. Songs have been sung about them (The Redback on the Toilet Seat/Slim Newton. ‘The Pub With No Dike’ /Fahey), poems and songs composed, and books have documented their unique designs.
TWO DUNNY COLLECTIONS
There was a story that dunnies were built specifically so Chokos could grow over them. The choko is a pear-shaped vegetable (originally from South America) that grows easily over fences and outdoor structures. It is either despised or favoured and was an important part of family meals during the Great Depression. It can be stewed, baked and eaten as a sweet or vegetable. Legend has it that we’re still looking for the person to admit planting a choko vine! Chokos seem to especially like dunnies and have been known to cover them inside and out!
Dunnies also lend themselves to humour and curious design including the double seater ‘honeymoon model’– obviously designed for the upper classes.
Dunnies were seen as frail buildings that could be blown apart (by a fart or high wind) however, when toilets started to be built with brick the term ‘built like a brick shit house’ referred to a particular solid structure.
Toilet paper is referred to as dunny paper however, in the early days, most paper was actually torn up sheets of newspaper. Toilet paper is called ‘bum fodder’ and relates to any publication only worthy as an ‘arse wiper’.
Dunnies were notorious for attracting blowflies that were referred to as Dunny budgies because of their large size and sound.
The man who collected the sanitary cans (or pans) was referred to as the Dunnyman or, sarcastically, the ‘pilgrim of the night’ because of his early morning shift. His vehicle was called a ‘dunny cart’.
Interestingly, a 1907 Paddington Council Annual Report cited that in the year 1906 there were 5000 registered houses in the neighbouring suburb of Woollahra and 4000 of them had cesspits.
The streets of Paddington, and other inner city, high density housing areas, still have what were known as ‘dunny lanes’. These were walkways that allowed the dunnyman to collect the pans. They create quite a problem with ownership as many developers, particularly in the 1960s and 70s, encroached on these public lanes when building.
Dan, Dan, the dunny man
Washed his face in a toilet can
(children’s ditty)
Each Christmas the dunnyman would leave a card – usually with some doggerel verse like the following:
A merry Xmas to you all
With plenty of good cheer
And may you have prosperity
Throughout the coming year.
And though the police keep order
There’s no more useful man
Than the chap who calls at daybreak
And juggles with the can.
We leave your pan quite clean
And try not to make a mess
We leave our verses every year
And wish you all success.
Signed: Your municipal dunny man.
In return we would leave half-a-dozen bottles of beer. No one dared not leave a gift as the consequences could be a frightening thought!
The word dunny is not used much these day however the word has entered our vocabulary and here are a couple of examples:
It stuck out like a dunny in a desert, (very obvious)
All alone like a country dunny. (very lonely)
Carry the can – do the dirty work.
Dunnies also lent themselves to cartoons and practical jokes. Many kids has scared the bejesus out of casual visitors to the dunny by planting ‘double bungers’ (a loud explosive fire cracker now banned) alongside its walls, or, worse still, thrown one into the space.
It’s probably a good thing the loo moved into the interior of the house.
INTRODUCTION
Between 2003-2005 Warren Fahey surveyed the folklore associated with his home city of Sydney. He relates the background of the project, survey fields, procedures, outcomes and some observations on collecting in Australia including some examples of Sydney folklore.
Sydney, Australia’s largest and oldest city is recognised as brash, bold and beautiful. It was, of course, our first European settlement and for that reason carries a certain amount of colonial baggage reinforcing older myths, superstitions, custom etc. Folklore thrives in every city and Sydney is no exception. To set the scene for this article I will draw upon some examples of Sydney folklore and explain my rationale in embarking on such a program.
Sydney’s residents are referred to as Sydneysiders and, by rural people, as city slickers. Those with a country property are often called Pitt Street Farmers. The city’s urban sprawl residents, some 4.4 million (1), are generically described, depending on their turf, as Westies (anyone west of Concord); Hillites (anyone from the Hills district (Baulkham Hills, Beecroft, Pennant Hills etc), and if you’re anywhere on the northern peninsular (Newport, Mona Vale, Avalon, Palm Beach etc, you’re living on the ‘insular peninsula’. If you live anywhere near Sutherland you come from the Shire, and anyone north of the Harbour Bridge lives in the ‘barbecue belt’ or on the North Snore – another demeaning reference to the gentrification of the northern suburbs.
Some suburbs are also singled out – Paddington is ‘trendy’, Balmain ‘arty’, Darlinghurst ‘young’ and Mosman, as a further insult to suburban gentrification, is known as ‘God’s waiting Room’. Sydney’s ethnicity is reflected by the names given to various suburbs: Leichhardt is Little Italy as is Stanley Street, Darlinghurst; the Spanish Quarter consists of just two streets in the city; Chinatown, representing the oldest ethnic group, spans a whole network of streets; Double Pay (Double Bay), Bondi Junkland (Bondi Junction), Nose Bay (Rose Bay) and Belleijew Hill (Bellevue Hill) reflect the east’s high-priced shopping areas and the latter two adding a racial slur related to the high concentration of Jewish life.. The high percentage of Chinese residents and restaurants in Chatswood results in the leafy suburb becoming Chatswoo or Chatswong and, across the city to the west, we find Cabramatta as CabraNam or Vietnamatta, reflecting that suburb’s large Vietnamese population.
Of course, ethnic ghettos are not new to Sydney. Newtown was once considered ‘Little Greece’ and Paddington was Little Portugal. Suburbs with high gay and lesbian populations also cop nicknames with Oxford Street known as the Golden Mile or Pink Highway, Elizabeth Bay is Betty Bay, venerable Potts Point becomes Poof’s Point, Surry Hills is Slurry Hills and one high-rise block, situated in Paddington’s so-called Vaseline Valley, is known as The Hanging Gardens of Fabulon, because of the abundance of washing hanging on the balconies. Many suburbs are abbreviated so Woolloomooloo becomes simply The Loo, La Perouse Larpy, Kings Cross the Cross, Darlinghurst becomes Darlo or, as an infamous piece of graffiti stated, DarlingItHurts, and Parramatta becomes Parra.
Oddly enough, residents of the eastern suburbs have not been named apart from having a reputation as ‘snobs’ and coming from the East, as if it were a mysterious Asian port. Those of the east freely use the pejoratives yobbos, ferals and bogans to describe their neighbours, especially those living in the outer suburbs.
Sydney’s landmarks also have colloquial nicknames: the Sydney Harbour Bridge is The Hanger, the Opera House is known simply as the house, Bondi Beach is either Kiwiland (because of its large New Zealand population) or Bondage, Bondi, of course, is …far from Manly. The next beach from Bondi is Tamarama however it is more likely to be referred to as Glamorama because of the so-called ‘beautiful people‘ who swim there.
The Cornstalks (that’s what colonial New South Welshmen were called) referred to Sydney as the ‘city of three G’s’- girls, glass and grog! Many would say Kings ‘Bloody’ Cross still represents those three G’s, adding a fourth G for grass (marihuana) or, if one were to believe Underbelly, G for ‘glassings’. Jokes and stories about Kings Cross usually receive wide circulation because the place is still mysterious and edgy. A typical joke reference is Kings Cross Tennis’– when you walk down the street it’s “Fifty, love. Forty, love. Sixty, love”
Sydney became known as the Emerald City after the playwright, David Williamson, used the term for his 1987 play of the same name. Mind you, considering L. Frank Baum invented the Emerald City in 1900 as the fictional capital of the Land of Oz, it was quiet a brilliant reference. In the words of the poet: “Where people go expecting their dreams to be fulfilled, only to end up with superficial substitutes and broken dreams” (Oh, so Sydney!). Some suggest the reference is linked to Sydney having a ‘jewel of a harbour’. This would also explain why Sydney is often referred to as ‘the harbour city’ (despite the fact Australia has numerous ‘harbour cities’). The most prevalent nickname for Sydney came from early rhyming slang: “I’m going down to steak ‘n’ kidney”.
Colloquial expressions are popular – The Hungry Mile (1930’s dole queues stretched down Hickson Road), Some references are very old like Bay of Biscay (an old bullocky reference to the pond area corner Parramatta Road, near Sydney University, where drays would often get bogged in mud), No go zone (from the evening bell that warned residents not to go towards Paddington’s barracks at night) and Poverty Point (probably 1930s reference to the corner of Hyde Park near Park Street).
Insults are popular too: He wouldn’t know if it’s Pitt Street or Christmas, He’s a Woolloomooloo Yank (an Australian who acts like an American), She’s so ugly the Bondi tide wouldn’t take her out, He’s a dial like Luna Park, He’s up King Street (ie broke – King Street is near the Law Courts) and He’s a Hyde Park Bushman (ie knows nothing about the bush), More front that Mark Foys (or Anthony Hordern). Kings Cross is often described as having more nuts than the Harbour Bridge. Sydneysiders go up to the Cross and walk down Douche Can Alley (Darlinghurst Road).
From a folklore perspective it is obviously interesting as to why we need to create these descriptive names for our cities, suburbs, landmarks and inhabitants. Considering our love for diminutives like barbie for barbecue,Woolies for Woolworth’s and the abbreviation of most first and last names where cricketer Shane Warne becomes Warnie or ABC Radio presenter Ian MacNamara becomes Macca, I guess it is not really all that surprising. Even I cop Wazza or Wocka! There is also a thought that by giving suburbs etc an affectionate colloquial name is to humanise them, make them more approachable.
THE PROJECT
When I made the big step to concentrate full time on folklore (ten year’s ago) I realised I would also need to produce outcomes that could help pay the bills. I have always been good at what has become known as multi-tasking, and, in my case, this has meant steering my various folklore projects to some sort of usually unpredictable financial outcome. None would work financially as individual projects however a grant here, royalty payment there and a few concerts and tours seem to bring in enough to keep the dingoes from the door. I mention this because so many different organisations, especially educational, media or governmental bodies call upon my services assuming I am paid ‘by someone’. I have always responded positively to most requests as I see this as part of my duty as a collector. I guess I live by the ‘what goes around, comes around’ karmatic rule. That said, I did apply and get two art’s grants to specifically encourage me to continue the Folklore of Sydney project. The first was a grant from the City of Sydney Cultural Fund with the support of the then Lord Mayor, Lucy Turnbull, and the City Historian, Dr. Shirley Fitzgerald. The second was a grant from the Australia Council for the Arts. The latter being what the Council calls a ‘matching grant’ (although of a lesser amount it was dependent on an outside body, in this case the City of Sydney, being a partner. Both grants made the work viable and were (obviously) very welcome. The main point here being that there is now a precedent open to other folklorists in other cities.
One of the key factors of any grant-funded venture is the outcome. Both my funding bodies were aware of my history in producing books, radio programming, compact discs and concerts and these, of course, were my main listed outcomes. They did not place any specific conditions on the grants other than the City of Sydney requesting three performances or talks based on the results. These were eventually fulfilled with presentations to the Sydney Historical Society, Sydney Mechanic’s School of Arts and the Kings Cross Library. Mind you, they were only three of hundreds I have given over the past years.
The expressed outcomes included the obvious research and documentation of a selected list of specific subjects which would be used in the preparation of a book, DVD and/or on my Australian Folklore Unit website, plus a program of concerts and talks based on the material. Because of the nature of my style of collecting some of the specified subjects were not covered simply because of lack of time and resources. Others were either noted or expanded because folklore collecting tends to be rather haphazard in that one subject can lead into another. I have stated many times that collecting and researching folklore is similar to assembling a jigsaw puzzle. I’d also suggest it’s also like Snakes & Ladders as one slides in and out of research fields.
Three of the most significant outcomes were not planned. By coincidence by the time I commenced the project I had also commenced work on recording a large number of Australian songs and bush verse for a planned anthology. Although the original series contained a large number of Sydney-related songs, I was able to add new material to the mix. Many of the songs were from early newspapers and magazines and, obviously without tunes, so the challenge arose to provide appropriate musical settings to these songs. This enabled me to bring to life some songs about neglected aspects of Sydney’s musical history. Examples would be ‘The Flying Pieman’, ‘When Dally Kicked the Goal’ and a song about the 1879 ‘Sydney International Exhibition’. ABC Music issued the series as ‘Australia: Its Folk Songs & Bush Verse‘ in 2009, and in 2010 ABC Books will publish the accompanying book containing song verses, music notation and background notes.
The second, and most unexpected outcome, came in the form of an invitation to participate in the 2010 Biennale of Sydney. I had gathered quite a collection of maritime folklore and specifically about Cockatoo Island. The project, a multi screen installation to be housed in the Island’s convict barracks, will feature a considerable amount of material sourced during my Folklore of Sydney project and offer visitors an opportunity to see rare archival images married to equally rare traditional songs from the NLA Folklore & Oral History Collection (including songs collected by John Meredith, Norm O’Connor, Bob Michell and myself).
The third outcome is performance related. As readers will appreciate, a good deal of my manuscript and newspaper research took place at the Mitchell Library. The State Library of New South Wales will celebrate the Mitchell’s Centenary in 2010and once again my recycling approach to collecting will be involved. I will be presenting three themed concerts: ‘A Convict’s Tour of Hell’ (the life and work of Frank ‘The Poet’ Macnamara)), ‘True Patriots All’ (newly sourced material on convict broadsides) and ‘’Billy Barlow’s Troubles in Australia’ (newly sourced material on emigration and pioneer settlement)
THE SURVEY FIELDS.
The project, the first of its kind in Australia, commenced on the 1st February 2003 and ran for two years.
The survey fields in its original draft included the following subject areas:
Early broadsides and songs about Sydney.
Pioneer migrants and their views on Sydney life.
Indigenous material – early interpretation of Aboriginality, Koori songs.
Folk poetry and recitations.
Traditional, popular and contemporary songs about Sydney.
Music Hall references to Sydney including songsters.
Word usage including colloquial sayings, slanguage.
Superstitions, customs, festivals.
Sydney humour including Sydney specific yarns and jokes.
Sydney eccentrics – a register.
Sporting folklore.
Curious history.
Labour history.
Ghost stories.
Folk craft.
Foodways.
Dance heritage in Sydney.
Children’s lore.
Oral histories.
I do not see myself as an academic folklorist. I never undertook a course in folklore nor any other university field. I often say I am a graduate of the Dingo University and the School of Hard Knocks as I certainly learnt everything I know as I traveled through life. If anything I am curious, focused and admit to an over-riding interest in most things that make us Australian.
In surveying the folklore of Sydney I wanted to make a broad sweep to illustrate how folklore is created and distributed. There is a general misbelief that folklore is something associated with the past, particularly our colonial bush past, and not something from the cities. In showing that dentists, bakers, butchers, bankers, secretaries, housewives and everyone else you care to nominate, all create and intentionally or unintentionally distribute folklore as part of their everyday lives, would show folklore as a ‘living’ tradition.
I have often described my work as being like a recycling unit – I collect, either through fieldwork or archival research – and then I ‘return’ it packaged up in compact discs, books, broadcasts, magazine articles and through performance. My Australian Folklore Unit website also plays an important role in this ‘recycling’ and receives around 55,000 visitors every month. In taking on a project like the Folklore of Sydney it was not practical to narrow my research to the exclusion of all other material. However, if I was trawling through an early newspaper I would look for anything that I considered interesting, something that I could use in a future project, and, of course, anything particularly about Sydney. That said, I also looked for specific folklore and what I refer to as ‘curious history’, and in the initial stage of the project I prepared a list of subjects that I considered would reflect the project’s agenda.
I probably achieved seventy percent success in collecting material in the survey field, the rest relegated to the not-enough-time basket. Of course, other subjects that I hadn’t considered appeared and demanded my investigation. In truth I would have liked to have done more fieldwork, interviewing specific individuals and group, but without a team of supporters such work is extremely time-consuming and, in a grid-locked city like Sydney, extremely frustrating. Such is the journeying of the modern-era folklorist!
In surveying a city’s folklore one could go in several directions and, indeed I did, usually at the same time! One could have, possibly should have, focused on several groups such as bus drivers, airport workers, publicans, gardeners, plumbers, hairdressers, secretaries, welfare workers – the list is obviously endless – my point being that every group would have folklore, obviously some more than others, but highly likely within their ranks you would find the remnants of traditional working methods, customs, stories, nicknames, apprenticeship pranks, jokes, word usage, xerox lore, superstitions and so on. For the record, much of this material is unreconisable to its users and distributors, until it is pointed out as folklore.
Folklore pops up in some surprising places. There is a small nature strip of curvy road on Barrenjoey Road from Newport to Avalon, mainly known as the Bilgola bends (after the beach suburb of Bilgola) where a custom has emerged whereby handwritten signs are festooned along the short strip.
The majority of these signs relate to greeting visitors or commemorating anniversaries, weddings, engagements and birthdays. Some simply say ‘Tracey – I Luv You’ or ‘Welcome back Matt and Bev‘ however one sign, of twenty-six, I recorded this past December declared ‘Welcome to my big, sexy, dark-haired lover boy’. Another pleaded ‘Carol – marry me!”. Mind you, the signs sometimes get nasty with one reading ‘Wendy B is a Slag!‘ The bend also contains a well-kept roadside memorial to an accident. The wreaths decorate the telegraph pole where the person was killed in a motor accident. Returning in January to photograph the current crop of signs I discovered the council had taken them down however a few new ones had been erected. One sign definitely created havoc and was the subject of a newspaper article.
As an old hand at using the media, especially my associates at ABC radio, I narrowed any interviews down to specific topics. To ask listeners to send in ‘their folklore’ would, not surprisingly, draw a blank. When I steered the requests to superstitions, place names, urban myths, colloquial expressions or school war cries, as examples, I usually received a flow of contributions. Richard Glover, Angela Catterns and James Valentine, all of ABC local radio Sydney, were the most fruitful interviews, especially on the subject of school songs and war cries, which appeared to produce a flood of nostalgia. In locating narrow subjects like theatre superstitions I emailed a short questionnaire to several theatrical identities, producers, directors, actors etc and this also reaped a good return. Some requests, especially for military and naval contributions from service people drew a blank.
I have a keen interest in songs and verse and although my main interest is traditional material I am also interested in other neglected forms including pioneer country music, songs written for live performance on early radio, music hall and early popular stage songs. Early newspapers have always been a fruitful search area and now that the NLA Beta projecthas digitized many of the main early newspapers, including the Sydney Gazette, Melbourne Argus and Sydney Morning Herald, searching is endless. A simple search for ‘songs’ produced some 239052 items and a further search within these findings for ‘Sydney’ reduced the list to a mere 108100 items. Of course most of the results did not produce an actual song about Sydney, more likely a reference to a song being sung in Sydney. What I did find were reports of events where songs were sung. Adelaide Advertiser 13/August, 1903: report on a Sydney event ‘Clergyman Shocked! Nigger Songs Sung At Orange (Lodge) Celebration () or, from the Hobart Mercury, 28 July 1908, a report on the Tramway Strike, Sydney: ‘What The Strikers Are Doing: Singing Songs and Making Speeches’. Another, which caught my eye, referred to ‘Profane Songs In The Public Streets’ (Letter to Editor, SMH, 28 May 1859), which referred to a seemingly bawdy parody of The Lord’s Prayer. Such references are extremely tempting for the song hunter.
Songwriters, being poets, often romanticize a city from a personal perspective and there is a fine line between schmaltz and emotional communication. Traditional songs have a way, to use a current expression, of cutting through the crap and, thankfully, so do some contemporary songs. The older songs and ditties about Sydney tend to be about significant social changing events (war, depression, federation, strikes), personalities (sportsmen, politicians, eccentrics) and newsworthy events (Sydney Exhibition, disasters, sport) and leisure time pursuits like boating, swimming etc) the newer songs (1950 onwards) tend to be about the songwriter’s experiences in the city. These include songs about various suburbs, landmarks, observations on people encountered etc. Songs that comment on political situations like the general frustration with Sydney transport and State Government management are also popular, especially in the folk community. John Dengate, Bernard Bolan and John Warner are three well-known contributors to the Sydney contemporary folksong catalogue. Paul Kelly, Richard Clapton, Tim Freedman (The Whitlams) are representative of more pop-influenced songwriters.
One area of song that did surprise was the sheer number of contemporary songs written about Sydney and its suburbs. Some were quite old but many were relatively recent compositions. I included all genres of music in compiling a survey list including some rock, jazz, blues etc so as to provide the most definitive list. I also opened this one to the general public by posting requests on various websites and forums. It was interesting to see how many of the songs came from recordings I had released on my Larrikin Record label between 1974-2000. See (15).
I grew up in a very different Sydney. It rivaled Melbourne for grand buildings but, sadly, and unlike our great southern city, most of them fell to the wrecking ball and greedy development. Being in my mid-sixties allows me some perspective on the city’s history although, I admit, it tends to be coloured by nostalgia. Such things obviously also colour what a collector collects! One odd thing I wrote about for the project was a nostalgic survey of Sydney ‘smells’ – everything from corner stores to department stores and some suburbs that had a peculiar pong about them.
The big question is whether Sydneysiders see themselves as different from the residents of other Australian cities. Folklore, in it peculiar way, can certainly provide us with some answers. Most Australians, wherever they live, tend to believe that Australia is ‘God’s Own Country’ (Godzone), and their particular patch the best part of it. Sydneysiders are no different and, I suspect, rather snobbish about it. My research shows they characteristically see Melbourne, or as Sydneysider’s say, ‘Melboring’, as too dull, Victorians are often described as Mexicans from south of the border. Adelaide as too up itself, Perth as too far away, Brisbane as new money vulgar (referring to it as BrisVegas andnearby Sufferer’s Paradise), Darwin is Hicksville and Canberra as unnecessary. Sydney, to its inhabitants, is just right (despite the State’s economy, transport, health and other vital social structures being in disarray). As ex Prime Minister Paul Keating once declared: “If you’re not living in Sydney – you are merely camping out!”
CORNSTALKS – BY ‘TOMMY’ – A COMMENTARY ON SYDNEY AND ITS CITIZENS
D E McConnell,
Sydney/Melbourne 1885.
Sydney, even by its most pronounced admirers, is generally admitted to be a dirty town. Certainly, to see it during a spell of wet weather, when the mud is churned up on the macadamised roads, by the throng of vehicles, quadrupeds, and pedestrians till the streets are covered foot deep in places with the sloppy deposit, would not favourably impress a stranger.
The villas in the suburbs of Sydney, those of the better sort, may well excuse a pardonable feeling of exultation on the part of the native-born New South Welshman. These villas, many of them, would do credit to any capital in Europe. Those of stone are built of the magnificent white sandstone for which the Sydney quarries are famous. It hardens by contact with the air, and assumes a rich warm yellow tint which is very effective and pleases the artistic eye. Even the less pretentious structures bear many marks of good taste, and an advanced order of embellishment. Indeed, the suburban villas of Sydney inhabited by the well-to-do tradesmen, the highly- intelligent, quick witted, practical, money-making, middle classes, give one a high opinion of the material prosperity, and the solid domestic comfort which their appearance implies.
When we come a step lower and look at the workmen’s dwellings, and speculators houses, the picture is not without its shadows. The great aim of the well-to-do mechanic is to run up a house of his own. By aid of the building societies he is enabled to indulge his laudable hobby; but in his haste to become the possessor of this house of his own, he is not so particular as he ought to be as to solidity of construction and excellence of material. As a result of this desire of the artisan to become a householder, the land has acquired an abnormal value. Building sites are, therefore, enormously dear. Societies, speculators, jobbers have bought up all the estates and vacant blocks around Sydney; and they divide and sub-divide, and cut up these into little-hutch patches and the houses spring up like bee-hive cells.
Our “Cornstalk” cousins are keenly sensitive to criticism. They do not love adverse comment, and are rather jealous of anything savouring of [critical] remark.
If one thing more than another detracts from the beauty and symmetry of the Sydney streets it is the verandahs in front of the shops. In the
construction of these every shopkeeper consults his own will, and is a law unto himself. In such a climate where, for weeks at a time, blinding sunshine pours down on the dusty streets, awnings and verandahs are most grateful to the pedestrian, and at other times, in the cold weather, the shelter of these adjuncts to the shop fronts affords welcome protection from the pelting rain ; but their beauty would seem to be in a directly inverse ratio to their utility. The principal streets are lined at intervals with porticos, verandahs and awnings, on both sides from end to end. Each structure is more hideously ugly than its neighbour.
The shop windows of Sydney are, indeed, smaller and meaner looking than those of most capitals.
Another feature which is almost certain to strike the stranger with not a little wonder is the very common habit of hitching up horses to posts or pillars in the principal streets. At first sight it would seem peculiar, to say the least of it, and decidedly against London notions, to leave a horse unattended and unattached to stand by the crowded pavement and remain there, unfastened, often for a considerable time. Sometimes the tired animal gets a little impatient and plants his forefeet on the pavement. The newcomer feels a tremor of apprehension as he passes [by] the heels of Rosinante Ladies and children have sometimes to leave the causeway to the steed on possession and make a detour into the mud of the roadway.
As I am on the subject of horses I may, in passing, mention the cabs of Sydney. These vehicles are about the best I have seen in any city. They are, as a rule, elegant in make, light in draft, roomy, clean, springy, and comfortable. The interior fittings are much above the average. The horses are generally sleek and well groomed. On the whole [the cabmen] are an intelligent, hardworking body of men. Many of them own the cab they drive. They have a hard life of it. Constant exposure, frequent over- reaching by unscrupulous fares, and disbelief in their honesty [do not produce] geniality of temper.
The cab tariff is looked on by strangers as very excessive. The regular charge is four shillings an hour for the first hour, or ninepence for every additional quarter of an hour.
The matter of public parks for our colonial towns and cities has only lately begun to attract attention and arouse intelligent discussion. The necessity for having these health giving resorts would not seem to have been even faintly realized by the original founders of our colonial cities, for almost no reserves were made, or lands dedicated for the purpose.
A formal hot lunch of three courses—soup, joint, sweets, with cheese and salad to follow, seems to be [the accepted thing] with the Sydney mercantile or professional man. There are no chop-houses after the London plan. There are depots for the sale of fried fish or oysters, but the Sydney eating-houses are not appetite-inspiring as a rule.
The Sydney populace can be seen best in all its glory, on a Saturday night. Tis then they turn out in countless swarms, and throng the streets in thousands till nine or ten o’clock. It is a merry good-tempered, orderly crowd, [for] the Sydneyites are as fond of a street promenade, as Parisian or Neapolitan. The markets are crowded, shops flare with the garish glitter of gas. Cheap Jacks shout till they are hoarse. Barrel organs and even more objectionable itinerant musicians load the air with doubtful melody. There is a densely-packed slowly surging mass of people occupying all the breadth of the street. Young fellows banter young women, with more vigour than refinement of expression or manner. Most of the house- wives carry the family basket, and make purchases here and there, as flesh, fruit, vegetables, clothing, groceries or luxuries come before them. The men are comfortably dressed, so far as slop suits admit of comfort. Nearly all of them smoke. The whole population is out of doors. It is the working man’s weekly festival. On the whole it is a pleasant sight, and rarely marked by scenes of violence, drunkenness, or misbehaviour. It is rough, doubtless, but it is a hearty, jovial, good-humoured roughness, and everything speaks a rude plenty, a vigorous, well-contented, well-fed, well-housed, well-clad, well-paid, working population. When we can add well-governed and thoroughly well-educated, we shall see a magnificent race, and [a] future [that] is not without signs of hopeful promise.
The Sydney larrikin, as the street Arab, the [local equivalent] of the London rough, or Liverpool loafer, or New York hoodlum, is called, is the most detestable creature on the earth’s surface. Devoid of respect for age, sex, or rank he is an unmitigated nuisance, a hateful thing, abhorrent to every right-minded citizen. The larrikins are numerous in Sydney. They are brutal cowards, who would not hesitate to rob a sick child, or steal the letters off a gravestone. they insult women, assault unwary pedestrians, defy the police, haunt the parks at night, and are up to every villainy and outrage.
AUSTRALIAN ETIQUETTE, OR THE RULES AND USAGES OF THE BEST SOCIETY IN THE AUSTRALASIAN COLONIES.
[From Our Australian Cousins, by James Inglis. London. 1880.]
Attitude: Awkwardness of attitude is a mark of vulgarity. Lolling, gesticulating, handling an eye-glass, a watch-chain or the like, gives an air of faucherie. A lady who sits cross-legged or sideways in her chair, who stretches out her feet, who has a habit of holding her chin, or twirling her ribbons or fingering her buttons; a man who lounges in his chair, nurses his leg, bites his nails, or caresses his foot crossed over bis knee, shows clearly a want of good home training. Each should be quiet and graceful, either in their sitting or standing position, the gentleman being allowed more freedom than the lady. He may sit cross-legged if be wish, but should not sit with his knees far apart, nor with his foot on his knee. If an object is to be indicated, you must move the whole hand, or the head, but never point the finger.
Anecdotes, Puns and Repartees: Anecdotes should seldom be brought into a conversation. Puns are always regarded as vulgar. Repartee should be indulged in with moderation and never kept up, as it degenerates into the vulgarity of an altercation.
A Sweet and Pure Breath: The breath should be kept sweet and pure. Onions are the forbidden fruit, because of their offensiveness to the breath. No gentleman should go into the presence of ladies smelling of tobacco.
Smoking: It is neither respectful nor polite to smoke in the presence of ladies, even though they may have given permission, nor should a gentleman smoke in a room which ladies are in the habit of frequenting. In those homes where the husband is permitted to smoke in any room of the house, the sons will follow the father’s example, and the air of the room becomes like that of a public house.
Suppression of Emotion: Suppression of undue emotion, whether of laughter, of anger, or of mortification, of disappointment, or of selfishness in any form, is a mark of good breeding.
Extravagance in Dress: Dress, to be in perfect taste, need not be costly. It is unfortunate that in Australia too much attention is paid to dress by those who have neither the excuse of ample means nor of social culture. The wife of a poorly paid clerk, or of a young man just starting in business, aims at dressing as stylishly as does the wealthiest among her acquaintances. The sewing girl, the shop girl, the chambermaid, and even the cook, must have their elegantly trimmed dresses and expensive cloaks for Sunday and holiday wear, and the injury done by this state of things to the morals and manners of the poorer classes is incalculable.
Among the rich, a fondness for dress promotes exertion and activity of the mental powers, cultivates a correct taste, and fosters industry and ingenuity among those who seek to procure for them the materials [and the labour for making clothes].
ENTERTAINMENT IN SYDNEY
[From The Sydney Morning Herald, 8th November, 1878.]
Amusements: A large and varied programme of amusements is advertised for the Prince of Wales Birthday (Saturday), and should the weather prove fine, the day will be almost universally devoted to festivities. The races at Randwick will prove attractive to many holiday folks. Lovers of aquatic sports will have their tastes provided for by the Balmain Regatta, of which a full racing card for both rowing and sailing boats is announced. The first event is to be started at half-past 10 o’clock. Another feature of the day’s amusements will be the annual grand picnic of the German Association at Correy’s Tea Gardens, Botany; the German Band will be on the ground, and dancing and sports of various kinds will take place; omnibuses are to ply every few minutes from 9 o’clock in the morning, returning from Botany from 4 p.m.
The City Band of twelve performers has been engaged for the new pavilion on the grounds of the Sir Joseph Banks Hotel, Botany. The whole of the pavilion is to be thrown open for dancing purposes. The original Australian Blondin is to give some high-rope performances, and besides Barry O’Neill and a Star Company are to give an open-air theatrical programme ; so that Botany will probably attract a large gathering. As usual there are to be numerous harbour excursions. A popular family picnic is advertised to take place at Chowder Bay.
Five or six steamers are to ply from the Circular Quay and Woolloomooloo Bay during the course of the day, and on the pleasure grounds the excursionists are to be entertained by the Australian Wizard, Barker’s New Variety Troupe, the Star and X.L.C.R. Minstrels, and the Parramatta Volunteer Band. Among the more private picnics will be one under the auspices of the Young Men’s Christian Association to Vaucluse, the first steamer leaving the Circular Quay at 9 : and another in connection with the Bathurst-street Baptist Sunday-School to Pearl Bay, Middle Harbour, the first steamer leaving the Quay at 8 o’clock.
For Manly Beach, Clontarf, Watson’s Bay, Fern Bay, and other waterside localities, steamers are advertised for the conveyance of excursionists. Those who are fond of cricket will have an opportunity of seeing the Alberts and Warwicks play on the Association ground at Moore Park.
A cheap excursion train to Bowral leaves Sydney at ten minutes to 8 o’clock in the morning, and the excursionists will have an opportunity of taking part in a grand bazaar in aid of the new Wesleyan church at Bowral. The fine new steamship Richmond is advertised to take excur-tionists to Sans Souci, George’s River. In the evening the theatres and other places of amusement will be open to the public.
There is to be a gathering on the Albert Ground under the auspices of the auctioneers Richardson and Wrench, who are to dispose of by sale a piece of ground that has formed, and might have continued to form, a park and breathing space in close contiguity to those very “delightful and healthy” suburbs of Redfern and Waterloo. Preparations for pleasure are being made at Botany, both on the grounds of the hotel and the Tea Gardens. There is to be an excursion trip to Newcastle, sports at Coogee Bay, special trips up the Parramatta River, and a moonlight excursion to Manly
THE CONDITION OF THE SYDNEY POOR
[From the Report of the Select Committee on the Condition of the Working Class. Votes and Proceedings of the Legislative Assembly of N.S.W., I860.]
A large number of persons belonging to the working classes are at present, and have been for some time past, suffering much distress from want of employment. In too many instances this is [due to drunkenness] or improvidence on the part of the sufferers; but, supposing these cases to be undeserving of, or beyond relief, there are still left several distinct forms of distress, which cannot be so easily explained, and ought not to be found in a well-ordered and progressive state of society. As might be expected in so large a city as Sydney there are many persons of better education and social habits, who are reduced to much suffering for want of any kind of employment for which they are fitted, and who make their distress the more severe by their struggles to conceal it. And of this class there appears to be competent clerks and accountants, who cannot obtain situations.
Since the discovery of gold, the unsettled courses of many working men, and their frequent absences from home, seeking their fortunes at the diggings, have left numbers of women and families in Sydney without protection or any regular [income] and the consequence is a large amount of destitution and misery. There seems to be among those who have resided for any length of time in the city a feeling of unwillingness to accept employment as labourers in the country.
Some raise objections because there are no schools for their children; others have heard unfavourable reports from the interior and are [afraid] of ill treatment; and others again prefer the cheap and ever-present enjoy-ments of the town. It is also shown that some men will not accept reduced wages [and this] refusal appears to be dictated by the fear of permanently injuring their class by the reduction, and a feeling that they would not be more secure of future employment themselves, if the lower rate were submitted to. But in the face of this evidence there is the fact that wages have greatly receded—in some cases to about one-third of former rates—during the last few years; and it is to be admitted on one hand that neither the desire to keep up the present standard nor the feeling of reluctance to leave Sydney operates in all cases, while on the other, the prevalence of such feelings is strongly denied.
The house accommodation of the working classes of Sydney is admitted on all hands to be deplorably bad; even in the more recently erected dwellings the means of drainage and ventilation are almost entirely neglected, and many of the older tenements are so unfit for the occupation of human beings, that one witness declares them to be “past remedy without a general fire”. The opinions of several of the witnesses on this subject are quoted in their own words:—
The Inspector-General of Police: “Houses of very defective character both as to cleanliness and ventilation”.
The Health Officer: “I think they are worse than in any part of the world that I have seen—worse than in London”.
SONGS ABOUT SYDNEY
A song about the wickedness of the big city and Sydney in particular. Such songs are usually from the country girls’ perspective but not this one.
SYDNEY – IT’S NO PLACE FOR ME Now Sydney is a lovely place but Sydney don’t suit me For I’ve been strictly moral ever since my infancy When I came down to Sydney first I thought it looked sublime I hadn’t been there half an hour, when to myself I said CHORUS There is no place for me, no place for me Now I go about with fears Bits of wadding stuck in my ears How it shocked my morality No place, no place, no place for me One evening at a circus show, I sat down in the stalls Just out of curiosity to see the “Leura falls” The girls all flocked around me I rose up from where I sat And to myself did say There is no place for me, no place for me Now I go about with fears Bits of wadding stuck in my ears How it shocked my morality No place, no place, no place for me This is no place for me, no place for me I gushed from that theatre quick Someone threw at me a “brick’ How it shocked my morality No place, no place, no place for me On Sunday I took a trip for the first time to the zoo And oh, I had such jolly fun & screaming laughter too The rude girls flocked around me & winked at me & sighed And a young girl cuddled me around the neck, when to myself I cried There is no place for me, no place for me Now I go about with fears Bits of wadding stuck in my ears How it shocked my morality No place, no place, no place for me SOURCE:Tivoli Songster circa 1899 |
The above ditty comes from around the Great Depression. James Hogue was the local member. Compare this with the ‘Vote Vote for Billy Mahoney‘ as collected from George Fahey.
VOTE VOTE Vote, vote, vote for Tommy Keegan, Kick old Hogue out the door. Keegan is our man, we’ll get him if we can. And we’ll kick old Hogue out the door. SOURCE:From Max Solling. 4/05 Max is a local historian |
LOU FROM WOOLLOOMOOLOO She’s not the sort of girl you’d admire I take her for a walk and round the shops And if she gives me any cheek I slap her on the chops Because she’s mine, mine all the time She is so help me Bob and strike me blue She isn’t exactly what you’d call a lady But she’s my Lou, Lou, Lou from Woolloomooloo SOURCE: Roy Rene song |
The introduction of kerosene lighting caused quite a stir right across Australia. This song, an Adelaide one, discusses the fight at Council level. It is obviously quite parochial in context however it does offer light (no pun intended) on this argument on illumination. My sense of humour was tickled by the suggested tune.
THE KEROSENE CAPER I’ll sing a doleful yarn, my boys, of Sam, the Hebrew sinister, Who manage once to Adelaide a fell blow to administer; For tired of his incessant jaw – this rowdy flame to spoil, sirs, The Council put the set on gas, and lit the town with oil, sirs. chorus Bow, wow, wow, the fearful things caused by this change, I’ll tell just now. The very night the kerosene was first bought into action. Old Paddy Coglin, in Light-square, paraded all his faction; At Boddington he loudly railed, swore nothing would delight him, In honour of the shamrock, than the pleasure just to fight him. In front of Read’s Imperial the Dean was dancing, While opposite, old Tomkey in a highland reel was prancing; Upon the curb Noltenius and Trew, in Sunday clothes, sirs, For drinks all round were shaping for the first hit on the nose , sirs. Bold Peterswald and Beddome, all position from them pinching, In bobbies rig, in search of cooks, sneaked down North-terrace kitchen; The head of the Good Templar crowd, half-tight, did Blackler knock-up; And David Blair, disguised in rum, they ran into the lock-up. As dark as pitch each street appeared, save where each pub was lit up, For half the kerosene required they hadn’t tried to fit up. Can any dodge like this be shown more foolish or absurder, To hold a premium to thieves, to outrage, and to murder? SOURCE: THE LANTERN January 1879. Published Adelaide. TUNE: Guy Fawkes |
This next song is a song in praise of the new Queen Victoria.-Typical ‘brown nosing’ of the era.
A NATIONAL SONG You sons of Australia, united arise, let the shout f your gladness ascend to the skies, For the queen, for Victoria, the young and the fair – Preserve her, Jehovah, from sorrow and care. O ladies all loudly, with honey-lipped song, Bear the proud measure of homage along; We’re subject to woman wherever we stand: Ye rule our hearts, and Victoria our land. When dangers are near her, o God be her shield, When armies assail her, do thou rule the field; And glancing with lightning and thund’ring among, Bear right and Victoria triumphant along. Thy banners, Victoria, restless shall wave – For merit is honoured: rewarded the brave – Around thee a nation will rally in love; In war-time a lion, in peace-time a dove. Happy, ye nations, beneath her mild sway the darkness of ignorance passes away, Oppression no longer is hid from the sight; Where’er rules Victoria, there rules the light. SOURCE: Heads of the People magazine 1842 TUNE: Says The Old Coal |
There was a time when the fashionable would promenade regularly around ‘The Block’ in Melbourne’s CBD.
IT’S NICE TO DO THE BLOCK LONDON may boast of’ its Regent-street, And Paris of its Boulevards ; New York exult in its battery, The most charming walk on the cards ; But give me our noble Collins-street, Where Melbourne’s fair daughters all flock ; To me it excels aught else beside When the hour comes for doing the block. CHORUS. For it is so nice to do the block, In the afternoon at four o’clock; Oh ! we like nothing- better- I assure you to the letter— Than ev’ry afternoon to do the block. Fathers will grumble and husbands too, At fashion’s demands on their purse, Ever forgetting that gold they spend On things that are very far worse— Ever forgetting- that woman’s heart Is centred on milliners’ stock, That nothing she prizes more than this— To be known as the “belle of the block.” For it is, &c. People whose faces are stern and sour Abuse, and condemn, and deplore “Our Gainsb’ro’ hat and our pull-back dress As idols that ladies adore ; ‘Tis envy I fear, it’s all pretence Their virtue has suffered a shock ! If twenty years younger, them you’d find Every afternoon on the block. SOURCE: Australian Melodist Songster By J F Hogan. And sung by Miss Ruth Gray TUNE: Lalla Rookh |
There’s probably nothing as frightening as biting into a bad meat pie which reminds me of the urban folk joke; “what’s worse that finding a mouse in your pie?” “Finding half a mouse.”
TWO BAD MUTTON PIES Take a careful look at me, And you certainly will see One that’s full of misery. Tears flow from my eyes, Through some pies I bought last night, But I only took one bite Of two bad mutton pies. Chorus Two bad mutton pies, Chock full of blow-flies, Pieces of rat, and remains of tom cat, Of two bad mutton pies. First I took a bite of one, Then the other I did shun, Lifted up the crust for fun, When, oh! What a surprise! In the place of meat I saw Nothing but a tom cat’s paw And a nasty goose’s claw. Oh! Two bad mutton pies. SOURCE: Australian Melodist Songster AIR: My Nellie’s Blue Eyes |
THE SYDNEY EXHIBITION From east and west, and. south and north, Past-haste the visitors set forth To face the winds and water’s wrath— And mal-de-mer’s condition! All who can raise the cash to go— Tom, Dick, and. Harry, high and. low— To Sydney now in numbers flow To see the Exhibition. Our Governor has led the way— Sir William’s gone, respects to pay To Loftus, for a holiday He’s taken intermission; ‘While Sammy once more rules the roast— A man well fitted for the post— He doesn’t care to join the host At Sydney’s Exhibition. And J. M. Wendt, who sent a case, Of goldsmith’s work immense to grace The show in South Australia’s place, Designed for competition; Has started on his briny trip, All cares of trade for once let slip, Resolved in purse this time to dip For Sydney’s Exhibition. Old Graham Berry, not content With all the public money spent On Embassy, when he was sent Home, with a big petition; Intends next week to shut up shop, All Legislative brawling stop, And rig himself in suit of slop, For Sydney’s Exhibition. Turks, Jews, and Chinamen all flock To land, and look at Mort’s famed dock, Or eat a native ” Sydney rock.” In spite of prohibition. From. men on strike, John means to go, And sport his pigtail at the Show; While Melbourne sends Kong Meng & Co. To Sydney’s Exhibition. They say that lodgings can’t be got, Unless you like to pay the shot Of charges made uncommon hot; Not even the petition Of homeless families avails, Or sleepy children’s horrid, wails; And lots are roosting on the rails Bound Sydney’s Exhibition. Well, let us hope they’ll all enjoy Their trip, with nothing to annoy; And that the host of sights won’t cloy, Or pall by repetition; While we, who forced at home to stay, Without a chance to get away, Read in the papers day by day Of Sydney’s Exhibition. SOURCE: THE LANTERN MAGAZINE Sydney Sept 10th, 1879 |
The Captain Cook Hotel is situated near Sydney’s old Paddy’s Markets in the Darling Harbour area
CAPTAIN COOK Deesa man liva in Italia a gooda longa time ago. He hada greata head ever since he was a kida. Nota biga heada lika de politicians nowaday buta swella heada. His fadda keeps de standa in Italia. Sella de peanutta and the banana. Maka plenta de money. Captaina Cooka he say: ‘Fadda gimma de stamp, I go to finda de new world.’ After a long dme his fadda say: ‘You go find de new world and bring it over here.’ Den de olda man he buy him a bag an giva him boodle an maka him a present of three ships to coma over to deesa country. Well, Captaina Cooka he saila and saua for a gooda many day. He dont see any landa and he feels sicka the stom’. Next he meeta de politicians an dees wanta him to run for alderman. He getta plenty friend. He learna to ‘settum up’ at de bar many times. Next day he have heada like deesa (bigga heada). His tadda writa: ‘Why you not bringa backa de world? I lika to hava de earth.’ Captaina Cooka he writa back dat Australia is already in de hands of the shamrocka. Den he goes and buys a place an calls it after himself—the Captaina Cooka. Soon he goa broke an taka de nexta train home in disgusta because he reada in de paper dat they make the federal city in Tumut instead of Paddy’s Market. SOURCE: IMPERIAL SONGSTER 1907 captioned ‘Bill Whitbum’s Dago Gag’ |
HERE IS A COMIC SONG in music hall style that seems to be more like a recitation. It deals with the seemingly age-old comparison between Sydney and Melbourne. Politics also rears its ugly head with a hearty serve to premiers Bent and Wade.
WHAT THE MELBOURNE MAN TOLD THE SYDNEY MAN A Melbourne man met a Sydney man, quite casually one day And started talking of their towns quite in a friendly way Said the Melbourne man to the Sydney man: ‘If you will stop to pause, I’ll try to show you how our town is better far than yours.’ Said the Sydney man to the Melbourne man: ‘Now, listen straight away, And I will listen patiently to what you’ve got to say.’ Said the Melbourne man: ‘In the first place, We’ve got the Fed’ral Parliament.’ Said the Sydney man: That’s only luck To a very great extent. Wait till they get the capital And then they’ll go away.’ Said the Melbourne man: ‘Your Harbour, As you say, is very grand But you’ve got the plague from thereabouts Or so I understand.’ Said the Sydney man: ‘Our Station Is a most important sight.’ Said the Melbourne man: When ours is built It will knock it out of sight.’ Said the Sydney man: Your politics Are wrong to a great extent. How do you expect to keep them straight When your Premier is Bent?’ Said the Melbourne man:’Ah, that’s a joke Which quickly must be paid, Your policy cannot be clear While through it you’ve to Wade. Now, though you’ve got your Harbour, We’ve got our Melbourne Cup And there we beat you badly When the numbers do go up.’ Said the Sydney man: ‘I grant you That your course is bright and gay, But our horses often win your Cup And that’s the game to play. And our electric tramways All through the town are run.” Said the Melbourne man: ‘Our cabbies Don’t kill people by the ton.’ Said the Sydney man: ‘Our cricketers With yours can well compete, They’ve given you a real good game Whenever they’ve been there.’ Said the Melbourne man: ‘I will admit But win or lose, I’d let you know, We’re sportsmen all the same.’ Said the Sydney man: ‘At football We play different to you.’ Said the Melbourne man: ‘I am quite aware That what you say is true, But if we all combine to play One game Australia through, I think we’d take on any team And give them a beating too. But anyway we must agree Though our views are not the same, We are all of us Australians And quite proud to own our name.’ Said the Melbourne man; ‘Now let’s shake hands.’ Said the Sydney man: ‘I will, And when the Empire wants us, We’re there to fill the bill.’ CHORUS Australia, Australia, Though composed of different states, When danger calk, then you will find That we are always mates. So rule Britannia, Britannia rules the waves And let us all proudly sing, Then give three cheers for the red, white and blue, And God save the King! SOURCE: IMPERIAL SONGSTER 1907 attributed to Chas. Chester with music by ]. J. Naughton from an idea and a title suggested by Joe Slater.. |
The last verse of the next song must have later raised a laugh since the Governor, Lord Beauchamp, was a notorious homosexual.
OFF TO PHILADELPHIA At a Band of Hope excursion For a little light diversion Mr Michael Morriarty has gone in, And hell cause a great sensation ‘Mongst the Manly population For he’s going to bath his tootsies in the morning. When he gets in the water, All the fishes he will slaughter The ocean beach their corpses adorning, And those who are stoney Will be buying eau de cologne When he baths his trilby covers in the morning. Now ‘Jawbone’ Neild, the ‘Major’, Has been on his bad behaviour, His regimentals soon he will be pawning And he’ll see no points, that’s certain When they’re ringing up the curtain And the General reads the Riot Act in the morning. Oh no one could be bolder Than the Paddingtonian soldier With his spiked moustache in Parliament adorning If his jaw could do the fight in Then, by God, he’d be the right in To fight all England’s enemies in the morning. Now Reid thinks he’s copped the nation With his scheme of Federation, He’s as calm as the country he was bom in And the Upper House he’s filling With a lot of blokes that’s willing, But hell have to face the country in the morning. With his bundle on his shoulder He’ll be going ‘ere he’s much older. Thos. Lyne and Toby Barton he was scornin’ And the cablegram did fright him and he’s not prepared to fight him when Jack want comes strolling home in the morning Now hear by morning’s cable that Australia is still able to weild the willow of her fame adorning. but with Gregory and Noble scoring their opponent’s colours lowering ‘Twill take them all their time to beat ’em in the morning. Now our Governor has landed we will meet him open-handed. he’s the youngest one that has ever been sworn in, oh, the single girls would catch him and we’ll have to feed and greet him, there’ll be Beecham’s Pills for breakfast in the morning. SOURCE: Written by T E leonard, Sydney PARODY: Off to Philadelphia |
I suspect this is a song about the street larrikins of Sydney. It also refers to the Haymarket, a popular hang-out for the early larrikins. ‘Act on the square’ was a popular term for being honest and true.
ACT ON THE SQUARE, BOYS Thro’ being fond of acting right, Straightforward, just and fair, I try to make my troubles light, And little do I care; As happy as a king I live, On just what I can spare, This hint, act on the square. CHORUS Act on the square, boys, act on the square, Upright and fair, boys, act on the square, Act on the square, boys, act on the square, Upright and fair, boys, act on the square, Now, in the street a thing so bad, Which often is the case, A swellfish foolish looking lad Some modest girl will chase; Then square you round, and let him see If he annoyance dares, You’ll give him striking proof to show How to act on the square. When out one night with noisy swells, The Haymarket kept alive, One Sergeant X with oyster shells To pelt they did contrive, They nearly got into disgrace, But squaring served them there; And brightly shone the bobby’s face, Who liked to see things square. I never liked a round game, nay, Round tables can’t a-bear; And in a circus I can’t stay, So I live in a square. Now, brothers all, and masons too, Of good let’s do our share; And when a chance presents itself, We must act on the square. Source: Australian Melodist Songster |
Here’s a gold digger’s lament that expresses the frustration of seeking the elusive yellow metal. It was a common story and one that miners related to in song. Who was Barry O’Neil?
THE PERIPATETIC PHILOSOPHER BY MARCUS CLARKE ESQ I’m in hunger, in dirt, and in rage – What care I? For life just a farce is; I wander all day on the flags, And I laugh at the whole world as it passes. You have cafes resplendent with light; At a penny stall I sip my coffee, sir; And repose in a gaspipe at night, Like a peripatetic philosopher, – and my name is Barry O’Neil. I once was a millionaire, And princes have dined at my table; Now my castles are all in the air, And my country-house but a stable, What care I? I’ve drunk my life’s cup, Tasted pleasure in all its variety, And though now I’m rather hard up, (Proudly) – I have moved in the highest society. – and my name is Barry O’Neil. Economy now is the plan: Tis an excellent virtue – in season; But it seems rather hard on a man To give him the sack without reason. Civil servants let loose on the town, Are weeping with volunteer officers, And go wandering all up and down, Poor peripatetic Philosophers! – God help ’em, says Barry O’Neil The world all quartz-reefing must go – I assure you it’s nothing but folly; For I’ve worked on famed Bendigo, And a ‘hatter’ I’ve been at Dunolly, I’ve carried my swag to each place, And then all the way back I did lug it; Though I’ve worked ’til I’m black in the face, I’ve ne’er found a two hundred pound nugget – no such luck for poor Barry O’Neil. Source: Australian Melodist Songster Tune: The Night Before Larry Was Stretched |
Obviously this was the origin of the bush skite song that entered the Australia bush tradition. A fascinating song journey from London city swell to boastful Lachlan River shearer. Interesting to see how the words got twisted around and around and back again. Of course, the most important aspect is that this song travelled the bush. I collected a bush version in 1973 from Joe Watson
FASHIONABLE FRED Of me you may have read, I’m Fashionable Fred, And no matter where I chance to show my face, I’m looked on as the cheese, and all the girls I please. I’m a model swell of elegance and grace, Wire in and go a-head, then, for Fashionable Fred, Pit pat’s the way and sharp about the word, Give me sufficient cash, then, see me cut a dash, For whatever’s slow in my idea’s absurd. Chorus Yes, I’m just about the cut for Belgravia, To keep the proper pace, I know the plan. Wire in and go a-head, then, for Fashionable Fred, I’m Fashionable Fred, the ladies’ man. My life from first to last, has been jolly, gay and fast, In fact to find a faster you’d be teas’d; In everything I’m quick, the Yankees call it slick, I’m something like a flash of lightning greas’d. Yet in my running ground, I’m game you may be bound, To give a flash of lightning ten yards start. I’d run for twenty pound, and ere we’d been twice round, I’d pass it like a bullet or a dart. This is the age for dash, and all must come out flash, If in this world they try to make their way. If you wear a seedy dress, you’ll find to your distress, All your friends will quickly turn their heads away. Tho’ I’m not worth a groat, I wear a decent coat, And rattle on and keep on going a-head, And all the world you see, will fraternise with me, And soon pal in with Fashionable Fred. Tho’ in the Park I walk, and with the ladies talk, My tailor’s bills I always like to run. I canter in the Row, and when to balls I go, I gallop with the charming girls like fun. With the times I keep a pace, and with them run a race, Still of them I’m always found a-head. I’m ready for a lark, no matter light or dark, Up to any game is Fashionable Fred. SITE SOURCE: CITY LIFE Source: Australian Melodist Songster Vol 1. Tune: Tomahawking Fred/Tambaroora Ted etc) |
SEVENTH ROYAL FUSILLIERS Gay was the crowd that went down to the ferryboat To the butcher’s picnic, held at Chowder Bay. I had been doing good business with a cronk tote, Before the traps found out my little lay. So I thought I’d go and have a spree; Took the girl with me – Young Polly McGee. Never thinking she would be stole from me, When we got off the steamer. One bloke started to give her the wink, Little did I think, that one little blink That he gave her, would send me to the drink, And so I hit him such a screamer. Chorus Oh, fighting with the greasy mutton crowd. The fun was growing loud, and after they had floured Me, up the coppers came, and I get sloud, For looking after my donah. Next day, of course, they had me up before the beak, Who looked at me hard and said, I know your face. Into the box the copper went with look so meek, And said that I was a disgrace. He said, my lord, don’t give him a fine, He don’t suit this clime, send him off to dine, In the nick where he is bound to shine; ’twill knock him off his tricks, sir. The beak said, now I’ll teach you the law, I could give you more, but I’m almost sure, By the look that I see upon your jaw, You’ll be satisfied with a sixer. Chorus Oh, fighting with the greasy mutton crowd. The fun was growing loud, and after they had floured Me, up the coppers came, and I get sloud, For looking after my donah. Source: SILVER Songster 1908 Parody on SEVENTH ROYAL FUSILLIERS Written especially for the Silver Songster by Henry Farrell |
I LOVE THE ROWDY DOWDY BOYS Genial, jovial, always full of mirth and fun Are a lot of the boys that I admire, Quite outrageous are some of the deeds they’ve done, Yet to speak of them I never tire; Through the tricks and pranks at different times they’ve play’d, Very often ending in a noise, Some folks really seem as though they were afraid, When you mention Rowdy Dowdy Boys. Chorus Don’t I have some fun With the rowdy dowdy boys, I’ll bet ten to one On the rowdy dowdy boys, Jolly good boys in every way, Fond of mischief I must say, Are the roaring, tearing, never swearing, Rowdy dowdy boys. How I love to meet them when I’m at a ball, Innocently somehow they contrive, If the frolic or fun should be flagging at all, Start their fun and keep the game alive; Jokes and jests of both they have a brilliant store, They as entertainers ought to poise, Most gallant are they to the ladies nothing more, Never flirting rowdy dowdy boys. On their coach at Randwick they are always seen, Well known are their faces on a course, One and all are quite welcome they are far from mean, Each one knows the merits of a horse; Late at night sometimes they may be rolling home, Bells and knockers these are useful toys, First come, first served, none of them leave alone, Most mischievous rowdy dowdy boys. Source: SILVER Songster 1908 |
This song quite possibly came out of the Great Fire at Anthony Horderns in 1901. It was accompanied with a note that readers could send for the ‘beautiful set of 18 coloured slides of this great hit, for sale or hire’.
HEROES OF OUR FIRE BRIGADE There’s a cheer and a shout As the men rush out, And the bell rings loud and clear; There’s a whispered prayer, From a wife so fair, For the one she loves so dear, There’s a fond good-bye, For the time is nigh, And the fireman he must go; There is danger near, Yet he has no fear – He must fight that merciless foe. Chorus Ready and willing on their way they go. Here the flames are leaping high; Onwards they gallop to the burning ruins, Hear the cheer as they pass by – (Shout Hooray!). Fighting so fiercely, with the stubborn foe, Fearless and undismayed, Lion-hearted heroes, we are proud of you, The Sydney Fire Brigade. ‘Mid the scorching heat, where the red flames meet, as they leap with angry roar, ‘Twas a comrade brave that he tried to save, but he fell to rise no more. Many deeds are told Of our firemen bold, Who will risk their life to save, And as heroes true, We have quite a few In the Sydney Fire Brigade. Source: SILVER Songster 1908 Lyrics: Grey, Milwood, Slater |
TAKE ME DOWN THE HARBOUR Now Gertie’s a girl, a sweet little pearl, She works down in the city; And she has a beau, his name is Joe, So handsome and so witty. On each Saturday, when he gets his pay, A message soon he’s reading, – “I feel quite alone, ring me up on the phone, You’re just the one I’m needing.” Spoken: Hello! Hello! Hello! Chorus Take me down the harbour On a Sunday afternoon – To Manly Beach or Watson’s Bay, Or round to Coogee for the day; Call around to Clifton, Or Mosman’s, it will do, Dear old harbour, Sydney Town, They can’t beat you. Way over the tide, how softly they glide, Out on the harbour ferry, Whilst music so sweet makes life feel complete, Their hearts are light and merry, Then homeward once more, they part on the shore, And Joe says to his girlie, “If you feel alone, ring me up on the phone, And call me quick and early.” Source: SILVER Songster 1908 Written by Gray and Bennett and composed Joe Slater. |
This one, obviously topical at the time, included the note “music from Fred Salier, Haymarket, Sydney” plus words by Alf Gray.
THEY CAN’T HURT PADDY’S MARKET BY CHANGING ITS NAME They can’t hurt Paddy’s Market by changing its name, What they do and what they say, it still will be the same, Take each week in a year, or days one by one, It’s the poor man’s old friend for his Saturday’s fun, They tell you that business is bad on the street, Why it’s ‘business’ is something that couldn’t be beat You may ask any farmer you happen to know, If things in the markets have ever been slow. Chorus Long live Paddy’s Market, It’s glory and its fame. They can’t harm the dear old place By changing of its name; The foes that assail her Shall soon see their shame, They can’t hurt Paddy’s Market By changing its name. They can’t hurt the dear old spot by changing its name, The upper ten may scrall and scrowl, It’s them that are to blame. From early morn to late at night it’s packed from end to end, And since its first erection, it has been the poor man’s friend, So let the toffs talk as they like, ‘Twill always be the same, They can’t hurt Paddy’s Market by changing its name. Chorus Long live Paddy’s Market, It’s glory and its fame. They can’t harm the dear old place By changing of its name; The foes that assail her Shall soon see their shame, They can’t hurt Paddy’s Market By changing its name. Music: music from Fred Salier, Haymarket, Sydney plus words by Alf Gray. Tune: The Wearing Of The Green |
I’VE CHUCKED UP MY PUSH FOR THE DONAH I ‘ave done with playin’ fan-tan, and I’ve chuck’d the two-up school, And I’ve left the push called Rocky, so my pals is gettin’ cool; Since I dropp’p the Strand on Sunday night they say I’m bloomin’ proud, ‘Cause I don’t go gettin’ lumbered like when I was with the crowd. Never more I’ll nark the nobs on Sunday down in the Domain, As I lay upon the grass and cut the daisies with my cane; I’ve been tryin’ to be square and do the straight since Boxin’ Day, For I’m thinkin’ of the Donah wot I met at Chowder Bay. Chorus. Yes, I’ve chuck’d up my push for the Donah, The fairest and best in the land, The dream of my life is to own ‘er, If only she’d give me ‘er ‘and; ‘Er ‘air and ‘er eyes is a treat, And tho’ she don’t paint or use powder, There ain’t no toff beauty can beat The Donah I met down at Chowder. Oh, you oughter seen my clobber and the cady wot I wore, With my daisy boots with heels, you bet, three inches ‘igh or more, Then the gaudy little stock and natty ‘ames so neatly And a bustin’ kick of sandwiches and porkies by my side. Rorty Bill ‘d interdooced me to ‘is sister, don-cher see, And I asked ‘er if she wouldn’t ‘ave a ‘op along o’ me, When she blushed and answered gentle, “Yes, if Billy says I may” I’d a died for that young Donah wot I met at Chowder Then I gave ‘er ‘alf my san’wiches, and when the coves got sprung, I stood keepin’ off the bottles and the other things they slung. Then we came back on the ‘arbour—oh, the joy wag sweet to taste— With her ‘ead upon my shoulder and my arm around ‘er waist; And the moon was shinin’ lovely so the chance I wouldn’t miss, But I asked ‘er if she’d ‘ave me, which she answered with a kiss. So I’m workin’ ‘ard and savin’ ’cause before next Boxin’ Day, I’ll be hitched up with the Donah wot I met at Chowder Bay. Yes, I’ve chuck’d up my push for the Donah, There’s no prouder cuss in the land For, cullies, I’m soon goin’ to own her, She’s promised to give me ‘er ‘and. She’s’ promised to give me ‘er ‘and; ‘Er ‘air and ‘er eyes is a treat, And tho’ she don’t paint or use powder, There ain’t no toff beauty can beat The donah I met down at Chowder. Source: SILVER SONGSTER 1905 |
NELL AT THE AUSTRALIA HOTEL Altho’ I’m not a tip-top swell, I’m very well to do, And when I love a pretty girl, To her I will prove true. I’m boss of a hatter’s shop, And ties and collars sell, And soon she’ll soon assist me now, My charming blue-eyed Nell. Oh, sweet little blue-eyed Nell, Belle of the Australia Hotel; No wonder I am gay. I’ll married be some day To sweet little blue-eyed Nell. Mv Nell at the Australia Hotel Was in the counting house, I never knew a Sydney girl Who equalled her for ‘nouse.’ She made the bills out, and she made Them as stiff as stiff could be, But on the other hand she made Them very light for me. She charged the toffs two bob for beds, She only charged me two ; I paid a bill for turtle soup (The price of Irish Stew), In fact she let me off so much, No wonder that I fell In love with lodgings on the cheap At the Australia Hotel. She won’t be there very long, We’ll soon now married be, And then we’ll dwell together In a cottage by th sea. She is my only treasure, and with me she’ll dwell; We’ll have a dear little home That will beat the big hotel. Oh, sweet little blue-eyed Nell, Belle of the Australia Hotel; No wonder I am gay. I’ll married be some day To sweet little blue-eyed Nell. Mv Nell at the Australia Hotel Was in the counting house, I never knew a Sydney girl Who equalled her for ‘nouse.’ She made the bills out, and she made Them as stiff as stiff could be, But on the other hand she made Them very light for me. Tune: Sweet Little Blue-eyed Nell |
Here’s a piece of Sydney melodrama based around its most popular market. The reference to ‘jew’ is racist however it was not necessarily seen so at the turn of the nineteenth century and even jewish performers used the word freely. The spoken section at the end is now ridiculous but this too was acceptable at the time.
PADDY’S MARKET ON A SATURDAY You’d like to do a ramble, The fleetin’ hours do chase, Just stroll down some evening, To Paddy’s Market place, On Saturday’s about nine, When flks are doing their shopping, And steam organs ‘Annie Rooney’ play And ginger beer corks go popping, Little girls are laughing, joking, Round the ice-cream man’s stall, Little boys are cigarettes smoking, Punch and Judy call. Here’s “Baked potatoes,” “Roasted peanuts,” “only a penny for the whole lot,” “Try your weight gents,” “Whose another?” “Make the pool up. A penny a shot.” Chorus Jolly and happy, sad and gloomy, Old and young enjoying the sight, Friendly greetings, lover’s meetings, At Paddy’s market on Saturday night. The “Echo,” “The Evening News,” and ‘Star,” The “Bird,” too, goes flying by; While sweet little lasses, ask all passes, To buy a penny “War Cry.” Tom and his Donah they travel To the dance, juts over the way, And into the market they pop To buy a sweet little “bokay.” A young wife with a basket, Looking so happy and gay, Looks up her husband, “Dear ‘Arry, What’ll we have for dinner, do say?” Then the old lady sells poultry Just gives her arm a soft squeeze, “Take my advice dear, nothing so nice, than a young duck and green peas.” McNutly, whose got a bad cold, A muffler buys for his throat, And Duffy comes down in his shirt-sleeves Just to buy a most “illigent coat.” McGuinness stands nursing a baby, Gorman nails a nice sucking pig, And Duffy walks home from a Jew With a coat four sizes too big. A roar and a crowd comes along, A struggle that is very brief. Abd forth from the crowd is drawn A poor little white-faced thief. “Have mercy, sir. Oh! God help me! I’m friendless, and wretched and lone, Oh, what will my poor mother say When the news of my crime reaches home?” Spoken: “Don’t take me, sir. I was starving and I stole but a little food.” Just then the gaslight fell full upon the boy’s face, the constable released his hold, the terror-stricken boy darts away, and the crowd cheer. The thief was the constable’s long lost brother. Tune: A Tale Of The Mile End Road |
This song is truly awful. Sentimental crap but included here because it concerns Sydney’s electricity which was connected in 1904.
AFTER SYDNEY LAMPS ARE LIT In Sydney’s great city When the lamps are lit Mark the weary faces That across the windows flit. Woe and want and sorrow, Beauty clad in rags; Weary unemployed jostling Those with money-bags; Wandering slowly onwards In the vale of tears, Squalid woe and want In a country young in years. Refrain Stay and let us watch together ‘Neath the gaslight’s glow, Faces that come from dreamland, Faces that come and go; Newsboys in tatters and merchants grand On through the twilight flit, Hearts that are gay and hearts that are sad, After Sydney lamps are lit. Comes a poor old actor, Once well-known to fame, Until beer and brandy Robbed him of his name, See his cold lips moving, Begging but a single copper From the passers by. Hear him curses mutter At the cold, piercing rain, See him pace the pavement A player king again. Ha! Ha! I am now alone, An outcast – has it come to this! Come, lay aside thy mantle, girl, And give thy old dad a kiss. Once the ‘heavy’ at the Royal, Now not for a super fit, He wanders a homeless wanderer After Sydney lamps are lit. See with tottering footsteps, Young in sin and years, A little blushing lassie, Her eyes bedimmed with tears. A pretty little lassie, Once fair as summer day, Now lost and forgotten, A lamb that’s gone astray. Weary, fainting, heartsore, With sorrow in her breast, She sinks down on the doorstep And sobs herself to rest. Dreaming of childhood days, Of a poor heartbroken mother, Of a sister fair, an angel face, A father and a brother, Of a voice that spoke of happiness, Of a dream of early love, Lost on earth for evermore, Lost to her above. When the lights in the harbour Are all burning bright, And the ships like gaunt shadows Move through the moonlight, And the sweet sound of music Is borne on the breeze, And the lovers they wander Far under the trees, And the songs of the children Are heard on the strand, And the silence of midnight Comes over the land. There are hearts merry and hearts sad, And outcasts who wearily roam And faces that smile and bosoms that are glad, And fond love to bless a dear home There are shadows of hope and joy, And shadows of sorrow they flit, And weary hearts and weary souls After Sydney’s lamps are lit. Source: Silver Songster 1905 Tune: Ere the lamps Are Lit |
Now this is a peculiar piece of Sydney’s social history. In the 1840s the mayor of Sydney decided to host an annual fancy dress ball. It became the subject of many songs, poems and stories and especially who was invited and what they wore. The uninvited list also received as much media attention.
THE LORD MAYOR’S FANCY DRESS BALL For governor Gipps & his lady were there in close tete-a -tete with -the Mayoress & Mayor & in trimly dressed Parker and smart Mereweather in the train of her Ladyship chattered together On the mayoress attended her maids of honour & her son in pages dress waited upon her Sir Maurice 0 Connell the forces commander Appeared among the guests a delighted “bystander Deas Thompson so stately & Biddell so hearty in civic costume were attached to the party & majors a captains attended the muster their scarlet coats brightening the glittering cluster & groups of fair ladies their faces unveil and sparkle like the stars in her ladyships tail Source: Aug 21 1844 Lyrics: ANON |
THE DAWN AND DUSK CLUB SYDNEY Its motto was ‘roost high & crow low’. Amongst its aims were- promoting good fellowship of living, meeting & criticising each others works with “‘bracing candour” & chastening each other “by judicious chaffing. The rules were printed in CHINESE so not to give offence to any member. Amongst its aims were the forming of a society for the ERECTION of ancient. rains in Australia, the establishment of a fund for the establishment of old masters, the forming of a branch society for being tired of new poets & to obtain cash offers from tradesmen interested in using the societies name as advertising Source: Book called ‘Those Were The Days’ by George Taylor 1918 |
The following item is obviously WW1. A ‘chrome’ was a tart and ‘stony’ is broke, as in no money.
SOUTH OF THE BORDER South of Macleay Street Near Rushcutter’s Bay I met a chrome and took her home, the other day, She knew I was stony, and I couldn’t pay – For I’m only a soldier on five bob a day SOURCE: Mitchell Library TUNE:South of the Border, Down Mexico Way |
LARRIKIN DITTY Oh fare ye well gallant livers And ye pugilistic pirates from the wilds of waterloo They’ll knock the pushes all kite high And they’ll try besides To cure your little weakness by tanning of your hide So to some more hearty climate I intend to make a dash And save my epidermis from contact with the lash. |
BONDI IS BECOMING VERY POPULAR Of all the days I love but one ‘Twixt Saturday and Mondi For that’s the day I meets my tart And takes her down to Bondi. Let other coves crack up Coogee Or cribs of what they’re fond, I Cannot forget, my oath! Could ye? The times I’ve had at Bondi. While I, when asked to take a drink The voice ‘ave to respond, I Shall allus down it with a wink And say – “’ere’s luck to Bondi!” SOURCE: THE BULLETIN – 1891 FEB. 14 |
My friend Frankie Davidson, the singer, reveals that this canticle on Sydney’s Cross was, in fact, recorded in Melbourne in April 1963. For the benefit of those who had not been to see Kings Cross pre-decimalisation, a “con man’s swy” is a double-headed penny used for two-up, a “tenner” is ten pounds and a “zack” is sixpence. Another glimpse of the old Cross is given in the words originally intended for verse two — “Or you could try the Chew and Chunder, you get three courses for a quid”. The Chew and Chunder was the name given by patrons with affection, if not complete accuracy, to the worst eating spot in town. [- WF]
HAVE YOU EVER BEEN TO SEE KINGS CROSS? If you think you’ve done some travelling, like to say you’ve been around, That you’ve seen the sights of Paris or the heart of London Town, You might say a night in Soho would be mighty hard to toss, But let me tell you folks that you just ain’t lived Until you’ve seen Kings Cross. Chorus: Have you ever been to see Kings Cross where Sydneysiders meet? There’s a million faces goin’ places walkin’ up ‘n down the street. Why tourists everywhere in their travels do declare I’ve seen the world you can hear ’em cry, And they’ll bet you a tenner to a con man’s swy You won’t have seen the lot until the day you die If you haven’t been to see Kings Cross. Let’s take the eating houses that you find along the way, You might like to dine with a glass of wine or a serve of Shrimp Mornay, Or you can try the spots down under, you get a three course for a zack, Where you can write your will as you pay the bill Just in case you don’t get back. You’ve got a list of spots to see and you’d like to spend some dough So you tell the taxi driver just where you’d like to go, You might do a tour of Sydney when in fact it’s on the cards That the place you sought when you climbed aboard Was up the road a hundred yards. So if you’re a weary traveller and you think you’ve seen the lot Well take my tip and make the trip while the money you’ve still got, And in later conversation you’ll never be at a loss ‘Cos you can tell ’em all that you had a ball When you went to see Kings Cross. SOURCE: Frankie Davidson recorded in Melbourne in April 1963 |
IN PADDY’S MARKET In Paddy’s market a long time ago There lived an old Maid in the life of woe She was passed 45 & had a face like tan When she fell in love with the saveloy man. How such she admired the Saveloy man For he was such a good looking saveloy man That the lilies & roses to fade began When she fell in love with the Saveloy man Yankee doodle, doodle dandy. He turned right round to the “bottom of the grand” Hot beans, pudding & pumpkin pie, The “black cat kicked out the white cats eye” The saveloy man he began to dote For his customers they owed him a ten pound note And, of course, she replied ’twas a scran To cheat such a good looking saveloy man. I’d marry you tomorrow, said the saveloy man And, of course, she well admired his plan And she lent ten pounds to the saveloy man So he took the money & he went away And she waited for him near all the next day But he didn’t come back & she began For to think she’d been had by the saveloy man She went out for to look for the Saveloy man But she couldn’t find the Saveloy man And somebody gave her for to understand He had a wife and seven little bits of Saveloy man SOURCE: IMPERIAL SONGSTER – 1907 Sung by Johnny Gardener & Harry Sadler |
THE FRIED FISH MAN Every evening when I wander home I can hear somebody cry Seems to be about a mile away Then it seems to be close by That’s funny old Bill – the fried fish man Who keeps the fried fish stall When Bill’s about, don’t he shout His old familiar cry Hello, here he comes along the street A-singing ‘fried fish, ‘taters’ Shouting out to everyone he’ll meet “All hot from the old pie can’ Every now and then you’ll hear him yell “Hot rolls – a saveloy Oh come and buy, won’t you try And patronise the fried fish man? In the winter when the nose turns red And the sleet lies on the ground See Bill a coming with his old tin can He’s off on his round Shouting out “A fried a fish all hot So taste before you buy” And wet or fine, rain or shine You hear the same old cry. SOURCE: Alan Rattray. 1908 Mitchell Library |
GOVERNOR GIPPS Fragment from ‘City of Sydney Story of its Growth’ by J Barry and pub 1902. When he eats oranges he’ll hand you out the pips They’ll grow if you plant ’em says Governor Gipps |
IN 1891. Convict song. Port Arthur Across the weary length of earth And many a wide, wide sea My soul springs back at one swift bound My native land to thee. |
WOOLLOOMOOLOO DITTY It’s a long long way to Woolloomooloo It’s a long long way to go Good bye bully beef oh Hooray cobbler square It’s a long long way to Woolloomooloo But we ain’t goin’ there. SOURCE: From Soldiers Send Up TUNE: Tipperary |
WOOLLOOMOOLOO CHANT Johnny and Jane, jack and Lou Butlers Stairs to Woolloomooloo Woolloomooloo and ‘cross the Domain Round the block and home again Heigh ho tipsy toe Give us a kiss and away we go. SOURCE:The SYDNEY FUN Monthly magazine Vol 1 no 15 1880 |
A LEGEND OF WOOLLOOMOOLOO I once went to Woolloomooloo, For I thought that they spelt it untrue; But I found ’twas the truth, For a sweet little youth Explained to me Woolloomooloo He remarked, gentle friend, you must know, “’Tis rather too full of the O ‘Tis too burdened with the L” That is all he could tell About the place Woolloomooloo |
THE TWELVE NEW WONDERS I saw Port Jackson, northward of the line, I saw some countries made of sherry wine, I saw a cobbler, dining with the Queen, I saw a Bishop, in a bonnet green; I saw a lady stop the Bathurst Mail, I saw Ben Hall and Gilbert lodged in gaol, I saw some paupers, rosy, fat, and strong, I saw an infant, quiet very long, I saw a dummy, warm in a debate, I saw a landlady, content to wait, I saw a cabman’s horse that bit it nails, I saw a bashful man in New South Wales. SOURCE:SYDNEY PUNCH 1865 |
WOOLLOOMOOLOO W double O L double O m double O L double O Upon my word it’s true That’s the way to spell w Now I bet a dollar There isn’t a scholar Can spell it right first go (Repeat as a round) |
TOAST Tivoli Songster 1901 Manly for oysters Balmain for shams Woolloomooloo for big feet Waterloo for dams. |
UNPUBLISHED POEM. George Street powders and paints her face Pitt St simpers in faded lace; But, oh, for the laughing maiden that goes With gold on her head and a dance in her toes When the spring is in martin Place. Mistress Macquarie sits in her chair With here hundred year spectacles bright on her nose She always can tell how the true lovers fare By the bend of the grass and the way the wind blows Bald head, bald head, you’re a lazy fellow Cockatoo is crimson and Goat Island yellow All the day by Barry’s Bay you languished in a daze Get out of bed, for winey red’s Balmain’s long nose SOURCE:DAVID McKEE WRIGHT Unpublished poem. Handwritten C832 |
SCRATCH MY BACK One night in a cheap lodging house Where the fleas whistle ‘Home Sweet Home’ Where they’ve got no blinds And the gaslight shines Far across the pint pots foam I gazed at a small flea hopping by That seemed oh so thin and cold It whispered to me “Take me up upon your knee” And this is the tale it told Scratch me back, Oh won’t you scratch me back Come and scratch me back before I go When I’ve finished biting all the lodgers legs Will you kindly let me know And wont I have a time Yes, I’ll have a pantomime With some dear old maids I know Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle, ting Hold me gently by the wing And scratch me back before I go. I can still recall the old bedstead The scene of rows and noise Where that flea would play All night and day We were pals since we were boys And now on the day I’m going away It stung me in bitter pain Cried “All hands on deck” Stuck its teeth in my neck And shouted out again. Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle, ting Hold me gently by the wing And scratch me back before I go SOURCE:Allan Ratray’s parody on his own original song. 1909 Tivoli Songster TUNE: Take me back to Bendigo |
This type of sentimental song was typical of the early music hall and interesting because of its references to Sydney landmarks such as Paddington’s Oxford Street and the GPO (General Post Office)
GIVE MY LOVE TO SYDNEY TOWN Old pals of mine, so far away, I write to let you know That I am thinking of you all to day I still recall with pleasure all those happy days of old So dear old Sydney town so far away In fancy oft I wander down each well-remembered street And when the golden sun is sinking down Its then I long to meet you all to see just once again The welcoming gleaming lights of Sydney town OHORUS Give my love to Sydney town Dear old pals of Sydney Town Remember me to the Haymarket Square And the old GPO how I long to be there Tell all the boys of Oxford Street I’ll soon be coming down Fondest regards to the land of my birth Far away in Sydney town Dear pals of mine, there’s others too, I think of with a sigh I know tonight there’s someone thinks of me Just tell her if you meet her that I anxiously await Her smiling face once more I long to see And if by chance you pass our way, I hope you wont forget To mention that I’ll soon be coming down Tell mother not to worry & tell the boys and girls That soon we’ll meet in dear old Sydney town SOURCE:By Grey & Bennett Imperial Songster 86 1909. This song had a set of 21 lantern slides ‘Principal and new building of Sydney. Joe Slater |
SONGS ABOUT THE SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE
Under instruction from 1927 until 1932, when the official opening took place on March 19, the Sydney Harbour Bridge had a number of songs to commemorate the construction and finish written by various Australian songwriters.
POPULAR SONGS ABOUT SYDNEY
This intriguing song contains enough references to send a theatre historian crazy.
SYDNEY AS IT USED TO WAS I’ve left dear old Sydney a long way behind me, My money is spent and I’m now forced to push To a spot where no lodging-house keepers can find me, As shepherd I’ve hir’d to go in the bush. Still dear to my heart is Sydney’s fine City, With its beautiful gardens and out-spread Domain; There its lasses are natty and scrumptuously pretty, Don’t I wish myself back in old George-street again. Oh don’t I remember the old Pitt-street comer, Where a lot of young fellows on each night would meet; There I sported a gal that was known as Sal Homer, And at the eel pie shop I often stood treat. The old Prince of Wales we’ve oft been to view it, And heard the sweet Christy’s sing dear “Ellen Bayne;” Every song that they gave my charmer she knew it, Don’t I wish I was back in Pitt-street again. Oh don’t I remember the beautiful market, With its stalls on each side like a regular street; Ah, that was the place where a feller could lark it, And on Saturday night a good titter he’d meet. And there’s the Haymarket near fam’d Brickfield-hill, Sir, Where you’ll buy things as cheap as in Petticoat-lane; From a yard of white tape up to Holloway’s pills, Sir, Don’t I wish I was down in George-street again. There’s where you can purchase something for a penny, If it’s only a tater all hot from the can; Get your boots black’d and shined, that’s if you have any, And if you’ve but sixpence you can shout like a man. In the bush all is dull, there’s no trips by the rail. Sir, Nor even a ride to far-fam’d Cremome; Where we went in like Britons at the porter and ale. Sir, Oh dear don’t I wish that I’d never been born? Oh, don’t I remember the times when the Shakespeare Was kept by that fan loving fellow Jem Foans; When we left the Victoria, or the oyster shop near it, We’d go up to hear him keep time with the bones. Or at Toogood’s rooms amusement we’d find it, Ah, all my life long there I’d wish to remain; But my cash being gone, why I laugh and ne’er mind it, Though I oft wish myself back in Sydney again. Oh, don’t I remember the Domain on Sunday, For there you were certain to meet lots of gals; Yet when the band play’d, though it might be on Mondays, You’d see them there sporting their fal de ral lals. ‘Twas amusing to gaze on their sky-flying streamers, As by shop boys escorted they walked the Domain; After doing ninepen’orth in the busses or steamers, Don’t I wish myself often in Sydney again. Oh, don’t I remember the old Randwick course, Sir, And the feats of Miss Alice with Zoe and Ben Bolt; Then I stak’d a few bob on a beautiful horse, Sir, Which my father had rear’d on his farm from a colt. Ah, who hasn’t heard of the feats of Miss Dickson, Whose horses in Maitland created some sport; Tho’ Zenobia yet may turn out a vixen, If the matter goes into the Criminal Court. There’s something so dear in the hut I was born in, Though many may laugh at my father’s abode; He was an old settler, and oft brought his corn in, From a spot that’s well known on the new Windsor road. They may talk of the bush, but Woolloomooloo, Sir, Has more beauty to me, and even Balmain Is a snug little spot, with an out and out view, Sir, Don’t I wish I was back in dear Sydney again. TUNE: Norah McShane SOURCE: From the Sydney Songster No 1 by George Chanson (as sung at the Sydney Concert Rooms). Published in Sydney circa 1869. ‘Chanson’ was writer, singer and publisher George Layou (born London 1835. Died Bundaberg, Queensland 1898) |
I am grateful to music researcher Mike Sutcliffe for his efforts in tracking down popular music and their recordings that deal with Sydney.
O! SYDNEY I LOVE YOU
About ten years ago I was asked by the City of Sydney Council to be part of a judging panel to find a song about Sydney. We cooperated with the ABC mainstream station 2BL
and its presenter, Philip Clark. The result was very encouraging with hundreds of songs submitted and most of them truly dreadful.
The song O! Sydney I Love You won a similar contest in 1927. That competition was run by the Sydney Sun evening newspaper and was entitled Song of Sydney. The winning composition was printed in the March 6, 1927 edition of the paper.
The winning entry was composed by a Syd McLeod then living in Wagga, who had childhood memories of Sydney. For this song (one of three he had entered) McLeod won the £100 first prize.
click on the image to view a larger version |
Second prize winner was James Jury who had only been in Australia six months. Third prize winner was pianist Lindley Evans then working as accompanist to Dame Nellie Melba in Melbourne.
The jusdges comprised composer Alfred Hill, conductor Andrew MacCunn and a Mr Aspey.
Shortly after appearing in the newspaper it was published by Palings at at the same time a series of recordings were made, as well as a piano roll.
SONGS
Here are two songs: one inspired by the Australian bush and the other showing the popular music influence of vocal groups.
As there were no outlets for recording local compositions in Australia, arrangements were made to record them in England and a number of English labels recorded these songs and in most cases the recordings shipped out for sale within Australia only.
So far this one item has turned up but there may well be others.
AUSTRALIAN MUSIC PUBLISHED BY THE MANLY DAILY
In the early 1920s the suburban newspaper, The Manly Daily, began publishing sheet music by Australian composers with a variety of topics and types. This all started after a song competition was held for the best music to go with the poem, Manly-By-The-Sea. The paper then published further compositions by other Australians.
The Manly Daily, an independent newspaper servicing the beach region of Sydney’s north shore, was an active promoter of Australian music and especially songs about Manly Beach. Featured here are sheet music covers of Manly By The Sea and When The Summer Comes Along plus the prize winning song Woolloomooloo (represented in my collection) and a Hawaiian Jazz waltz. (click on the images to view larger versions)
Adverts in 1926 show that Russ Johnson was the manager of the music department – Johnson having written one of their big sellers – After Dark.
An outlet for sales was at 124 King Street, Sydney, where gramophone records, player rolls, musical instruments as well as sheet music could be purchased.
Unfortunately none of the compositions were recorded locally as they finished just prior to when Columbia started recording at Homebush. However, mention is made at the end of one record that is known to feature a couple of songs.
SHEET MUSC
This is a list of songs that deal with Sydney and environs.
SAYINGS of OLD SYDNEY
The following are from a Royal Historical Society (RHS) talk given in 1901 by J P Guame, ‘Humours and past Times of Early Sydney’
SYDNEY COVE | was usually referred to as a joke i.e. ‘He’s a Sydney Cove’ |
JERRANDL | an Aboriginal word. Was adapted as slang to mean ‘I don’t know’ |
BAAL BADGEREE | an Aboriginal word, was used in slang meaning ‘no good’ |
YAHOO | apparently Surgeon General Collins of the ‘Supply’ thought he heard Aborigines calling out ‘Yahoo’ as if they were lost. It was nonsensical and the word became used to refer to people who ‘didn’t have a clue’. 1879 |
OH GREAT GOANNA! | Used by Surgeon Bowes, of the first fleet, when he saw a goanna for the first time. It became a popular expression for surprise. |
JIMMIGRANTS, LICK SPOONS AND BURGOO CLASS | new arrivals in the colony |
SYDNEY OR THE BUSH. | This was a popular 19th century cry referring to the competition between the urban and rural sector. It is used to describe long odds as in gambling or other unlikely outcomes. |
THE BIG SMOKE. | Country name for Sydney (and Melbourne) |
KING STREET SWELL. | King street, in the city centre, was the fashionable street and, at one stage, housed the smart oyster bars. It is still the style strip of Sydney with international brand name products retailing there. |
SHOOT THROUGH – LIKE A BONDI TRAM. | At one time Sydney as serviced by trams and trolley buses including the popular Bondi Beach service. |
MORE FRONT THAN MARK FOYS (Or Horderns) . | Both large city retailers with expansive windows |
A DIAL LIKE LUNA PARK. | Sydney’s fun park has a large face as entrance gates. Dial is colloquial for face. |
SOUTHERLY BUSTER | Name for the southern gales that usually hit Sydney in summer months. These high winds usually bring cooling relief on hot days. |
MOUTH LIKE THE HARBOUR BRIDGE. | The ‘coat hanger’ is shaped liked a large smile. |
BOTANY BAY BARFLY | Very early reference to Sydney’s drinking habits. |
PITT STREET FARMER | Station owner who lives in the city rather than the land. |
UP KING’S STREET | Infers that one is penniless and used because of the close proximity of the city law courts. |
GONE TO GOWINGS | The advertising slogan of one of Sydney’s oldest general clothing retailers. It is used colloquially as in he’s gone but we’re not telling where. |
OFF THE GAP . | The Gap at Watson’s Bay has been the site of many suicide jumps. |
DRESSED UP LIKE THE MAN OUTSIDE HOYTS | At one stage the Hoyts cinema in George Street had an elaborately dressed concierge out the front of the cinema |
THE MAN OUTSIDE HOYTS TOLD ME. | As above and used when you do not want to provide accurate information. |
HE’S BONDI (far from Manly) | Manly is a northern beach suburb. A play on words |
HE WOULDN’T KNOW IF IT’S PITT STREET OR CHRISTMAS. | Infers dim-wittedness |
CROOK AS ROOKWOOD | Rookwood is a Sydney cemetery. |
MORE HIDE THAN JESSIE THE ELEPHANT. | Jessie was an elephant at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo. She died in 1939. |
WOOLLOOMOOLOO YANK | An Australian who acted like an American. |
GET OFF AT REDFERN | Used to describe coitus interruptus (Redfern is the station before Central railway) |
UP THE CROSS | Refers to Kings Cross, the popular ‘red light’ area of Sydney. |
MORE NUTS THAN THE BRIDGE | Nuts means crazies and the Bridge is Sydney harbour Bridge. |
HYDE PARK BUSHMAN | Someone who knows nothing about the bush. Hyde Park is Sydney’s central parkland. |
Australians often refer to their native country as ‘God’s Own’ or, to use slanguage, ‘Gawd’szone’. It is indeed a beautiful and surprising country and one we should celebrate. Many songs were composed in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to celebrate Australia’s progress from a penal settlement to a ‘respectable’ place for emigrants and citizens. Many were cliche or doggerel and pointed to our emerging ‘sophistication’.
Whilst there is still a tendency to wave our hands in the air singing ‘We are, you are, we are Orstralian’, we have a long history of seeing ourselves as gawky bushies and even today in the 21st century, we retain a bit of that confused identity.
The Argus 13 Nov. 1937
WHAT IS OUR NATIONAL TYPE?
Round the Continent in Search of True Sons of the Austral Pan
By J. M. HARCOURT
(Mr. Harcourt is a young Australian author who has travelled widely through
the Commonwealth. He has written several books and many magazine articles.)
THE spirit of a land expresses itself in the types of humanity it pro-duces. In the course of time, from a multiplicity of types, one emerges, steps out from the ranks as it were, and stands forward as a symbol of the land, a vial of its quintessential essence. John Bull appears in England, Uncle Sam in the United States. Australia is too young yet to have evolved a human symbol, but there are men in whom one seems to catch a glimpse of the symbol that is to be.
I met him at the recent Melbourne Royal Show. His face was thin, his features aquiline, and his lank, lean body as tough as whipcord. His straight gaze was half cynical, half pitiful, as if he had known hardship and treachery, but had not been broken by them, only scarred. And-no, he was not a farmer. He was a tramp, the spiritual descendant of the original sundowner.
But none of your ordinary tramps who hump a bluey between shearing-sheds or cut up a farmer’s woodheap for a hand-out, though he has done those things, too.
“Why pound the hoof with a bluey on your back when you can travel first class in comfort?” he inquired. “Nobody looks for tramps in first-class carriages. A man gets to know where ticket inspectors are likely to get on trains and just slips into the lavatory, or maybe, if the other fellers in the carriage look a bit human, under a seat. I walk when I feel like it and I don’t when I don’t.”
YOU think this is Australia,” he said moving his hand in a gesture which embraced the whole Royal Show. “But it isn’t. It’s only a part of it. You’ve got to be a tramp to know Australia – a tramp with seven-league boots like me. Australia isn’t Henry Lawson and Steele Rudd, boundary riders and drovers, and Dad and Dave. And it isn’t the Sentimental Bloke either, if you know what I mean. There are Dads and Daves and Sentimental Blokes, and maybe they’re typical enough, but they don’t make up the whole of the people of Australia. “I put up matilda when I was a bit of a kid -17 or thereabouts- and I’ve been waltzing her ever since. Sort of long-distance dancing competition! When I began I didn’t know anything, so I walked and did all the things the common run of tramps do. When I was hungry I’d go up to a farmhouse and beg a meal or offer to chop wood in exchange for it.
“I dug spuds for the Irish in Bungaree, picked grapes for Scotsmen round Stawell, and swung a pick for the Water Commission in the Mallee. And they were all as different as chalk and cheese, and I’ve found ’em just as different in other places I’ve been. Australia’s a Tait like a crazy quilt-all sorts of little patches of all shapes and sizes, and it’s only when you take it in from a distance, like, that you sort of see the pattern that’s really in it.
“There’s Australians that can’t speak English – and that ain’t a crack at the Orstrylian accent either!
“Up in Gilgandra, in New South Wales, I struck a farmer named Mackenzie, who was born in South Australia, but could speak only German. He had a Scottish name, but his people were Germans. I suppose his forebears migrated from Scotland to Germany, and then some of them came out with the crowd that began the German colony in South Australia. Anyway, that was where this Mackenzie came from-South Australia. But he couldn’t speak English.
“He looked like an Aussie, too. . . . have you noticed that Australians don’t look like Englishmen; that you can always tell ’em apart? But how often do you meet a Jugoslav that you can tell on sight? There’s plenty of them out here, but you don’t notice them particularly, because it’s only when you hear them talking in their own lingo that you know they’re foreigners. The Australians I’ve said that to don’t like it much, because they sort of look down on Jugoslavs. But we look like ’em all the same. You can tell an Aussie from an Englishman, or from an Irishman, or a Scot, or a German, or a Swede, for that matter. But you can’t tell him apart from the average Jugoslav.
“I was talking about Australians who can’t speak English. There are plenty of them up in Queensland, round Halifax and Innisfail, where the sugar cane grows. ‘Little Italy,’ they call it. Italian schools for kids born in Australia. Whole Italian towns. But them Italians, like that Mackenzie feller, look like Australians, look like Jugoslavs. “I knew a writer bloke in the west once. Peter Hopegood was his name. He had an idea that every country was inhabited by a sort of genii who was an artist, a sort of sculptor, like, who took hold of everything new and remodelled it ac-cording to his own ideals.
“This Hopegood bloke reckoned everything Australian looked alike. D’you get what I’m driving at? That there’s a sort of similarity between all the birds and animals and trees and flowers. And human beings, too. He thought this genii – he called him Austral Pan – got to work on migrants as soon as they came here, and in a generation or two changed them so that their mothers wouldn’t know them.
“I can’t pay that genii idea myself, but I reckon there’s something in this country that changes the people that come to it-turns ’em into Aussies. Because wherever you go the Aussie sort of face is the same. It can be dark or it can be fair, and it can be round or long and fat or thin, but there’s always some-thing about it that you can recognise. “Anyway, I’ve seen it everywhere. “Gumsuckers are different from Cornstalks, Cornstalks from Croweaters, and Croweaters from Sandgropers. You can almost tell ’em apart. Yet you find the sort of thing I’m talking about in all their faces-something Australian.
A man’s possie in life or his morals don’t make any difference. I knew a bloke in Western Australia. He was one of the big wigs. Owned properties all over the place, and businesses and things. Used to have agents on the immigrant ships before the depression set in to sign up Pommies for his farms at 10 bob a week and tucker. Posed as a sort of philanthropist. Soon as he’d worn ’em out he’d sack ’em. “I was hanging round an employment bureau in Perth one day when a message from this chap came through. It looked like his look-’em-outs on the ships had fallen down on their job, because he said:
‘Send me up a truck-load of Pommies, will yuh, so’s I might be able to pick a farm labourer out of the bunch.’ “
He was an Aussie. He wasn’t the kind I’ve got any time for, but he sort of symbolised a “brand of arrogance some Aussies have got; you know – reckon they’re better than Pommies – though they aren’t all bad who feel like that. This chap had the Aussie sort of face, too, though his father was a Pommie. Inland they’re all Aussies – the blokes on the cattle stations. You could almost see where this Austral Pan had carved the lines in their faces, as I sup-pose he’s carved them in mine, and drained the colour out of ’em like and made ’em his own. But they weren’t Japs and Koepangers, of course. They were whites. It doesn’t seem to matter what country they come from if they’re whites.
Then at Wyndham when the meat-works open and the blokes come from all over the place for the killing. It’s good pay at the meat-works. There’s men there from every quarter of the earth, yet pick one without an Aussie face and ask him and you’ll find he’s new been up once or twice before, perhaps – but that’s all.
My mate fell silent. Then presently he yawned and said he had to go. He had a date with a bloke out at the aerodrome who was going to put him wise to jumping a plane for Sydney. He’d never jumped a plane before, but he thought it ought to be a good lurk. Nobody would look for tramps in a plane. I bade him good-bye and he walked off unhurriedly, a son, if there ever was one, of that Austral Pan, in whom he refused to believe.
BEST LITTLE SPOT ON THE FACE OF THE EARTH Written, composed and sung by Skipper Francis I’ve travelled East; I’ve travelled West, And of all the lot, I love the best, My dear old home, so far away, Where loved ones wait for me day by day. In North and South, I’ve tried my hand On desert plain and fertile land, My heart is sad through roaming round, How happy would I be homeward bound. THE Chorus There’s a dear little spot across the sea, It mightn’t please you, but ‘twill just suit me; If once you saw it you’d ne’er want to roam, And I’m thankful I can call it ‘Home Sweet Home’. The dear old folks are waiting there. With a light burning brightly by the old arm chair;> I’m going back to joy and mirth, To the best little spot on the face of the earth. |
SYDNEY SUBURBS
Alphabetical list of Sydney (and environs) nicknames
I have been collecting colloquial nicknames for Sydney suburbs for quite a few years and in 2015 expanded the list by posting on some social media sites I subscribe to – an extraordinary response. Many are simple contractions, oh, how we love our contractions, however all have been submitted several times from Lost Sydney readers and also from my own Facebook home page. Some are old, others modern. Many are racist slurs however as a cultural historian I am interested in documenting such expressions (if you are curious about my views on censorship read my e-book ‘Sing Us Anothery, Dirty As Buggery’). Racist slurs are usually created by mob mentality with little thought of those who might be offended. They are usually a generalisation and, of course, xenophobic. Some use is almost affectionate – “Let’s go eat Chinese at Chatswoo”. It is interesting to surmise if some of the nicknames are given by residents of the area, for example, would a Newtown resident refer to ‘Spewtown’ because it is in the colloquial slanguage? Personally, I think they would because we Aussie are often very self-deprecating.
Abbotsford – Abbo. Ashfield – Hashfield, Trashfield. Auburn – Auburnon. Avalon – Av, locals are Av Cats. Balmain – Balpain Balmain was in sections – The Grove, the East End, the Valley and Bald Rock. Bankstown – Banky, Gangstown. Baulkham Hills – Baulkham Hillsong, Boredom Hills. Beecroft – Sleepy Hollow. Bellevue Hill – Belljew Hill, Below Hill. Belmore – Little Lebanon. Birchgrove – The Grove Blackheath – Bleakheath. Blacktown – Slacktown, Bunkistown. Bondi – Little Auckland, kiwiland, Bondage, Bonjeye, Blonde Dye, Scum Valley. Bondi Junction – Bondi Junkland, Bogan Junction, Bondi Jungle. Jung-o, Bondage Junction. Bronte – Bronte Carlo, Bronny. Brooklyn – Brookie Brookvale – Brookie. Burwood – Burwog, Burwoo. Cabarita – Cabo .Cabramatta – Vietnamatta, CabraNam, Scabramatta, Stabramatta. Campbelltown – Scrambletown, C Town. Canley Heights – Canley Hoyts. Canterbury – Canker Berry. Carlingford – Carlo.. Carringbah – Cazbah. Central coast – Blacktown on the beach. Chatswood – Chingwood, Chatty, Chatswoo, Chatswong, Chatswah. Cherrybrook – Chinabrook, Currybrook, Chellyblook. Chester Hill – Cheso. Chipping Norton – Chippi. Circular Quay – The Qua.y Collaroy – The Roy. Condell Park – Condom Park. Cronulla – Crunallafornia, The Nulla. Crows Nest – Crowie. Curl Curl – Curly, The Roy. Dangar Island – The Rock. Darling Point – Darling Don’t Point. Darlinghurst – Darlo, Razorhurst, Darling-it-hurts. Dee Why – The Why. Denham’s Court – Snob’s Hill. Doonside – Doomside. Double Bay – Double Pay. Dover Heights – Jehovah’s Heights, Olveh Heights. Drumoyne – Drummy. Dulwich Hill – Dully. Earlwood – Girlwood. East Hills – Snake Gully. East Ryde – Dung Hill (used to dump night soil there). Eastie – someone from eastern suburbs. Eastwood – Eastwoo, Far Eastwood. Elizabeth Bay – Betty Bay, Lizzy Bay, Ebay. Emu Plains – Emu, Emoo. Epping – Effing, E-ping, Eeping. Erskinville – Erko, Foreskinville. Fairy Meadow – Poofter’s Paddock. Five Dock – Fiva Docka. Forrest Lodge – Flodge. Freshwater – Freshi. Glebe – Bleed, Glib Haberfield – Habbo. Hazelbrook – Hazo. Hillites – anyone from the hill’s districts eg Baulkham, Pennant etc. Hills District – The bible belt. Hornsby – Horny. Hurstville – Hurtsville, Worstville, Horse Wheel. Ingleburn – The Burn. Inglebum. Jaminson Town – Jammo. Janalli – Jal. Katoomba – K town. Kensington – Kenso. Kilara – (with posh accent) Klara. Kings Cross – The Dead Loss, Kinks Cross. Kingsford – Chinsford, Chinksford. Kogarah – Wograh. Kurnell – Far Kurnell. La Peruse – Larpa. Lakemba – Lebkemba, Lakembanon, Lake Embla. Lane Cove – Larner Covee. Leichhardt – Dykeheart, Like Tart, aka Little Italy. Lidcombe – Liddy Long Reef – The Reef. Macquarie Fields – Macfields. Maroubra – Bra. Madonna’s bra Maroubra Junction – The Junk Marrickville – Marrickvile, Wagga Wagga (?), The Ville. Mattraville – Matto. Meadowbank – Mudbank. Miller’s Point – The Point. Minto – Minno. Momebush – Hairybush. Mortdale – Death valley, Mortadella. Mosman – God’s waiting room, Mozzie .Moss Vale – Moss Vegas. Mt Druitt – Mounty Country .Naremburn – Narra Burn. Narrabeen – Narrow Bean. Narraweena – Criminal Hill. Narwee – No where. Neutral Bay – Beige Bay, Neuters Newtown – Spewtown, The Zoo, Zootown, Poo Town, The Republic. North of the Bridge – Mordor North Shore – North Snore. Oatley – The Lost World. Oxford St – Poxford street, The Strip, Pink Highway. Paddington – Paddo Paddington – where it joins Darlinghurst – Paddinghurst. Pagewood – PageWouldn’t. Palm Beach – Palmie. Palm Beach Peninsular – The Insular Peninsula. Parramatta – Parra, Parra-doesn’t-matter, What’s the Matter, Parramattata, Scab-n-matter. Parsley Bay – Ghastly Bay. Peakhurst – Peakie. Pendle Hill – Pendo, Penetration Hill. Pennant Hills – Penno. Penrith – Penruff – Penriff, The Riff. . Petersham – The Sham, Little Portugal. Potts Point – Poof’s Point Prospect – Prossie Punchbowl – Punchie Pymble – Pimple Quaker’s Hill – The Quake Queenscliff – Queensy. Redern – Redfun. Regents Park – Rego Riverstone – Rivo Riverview – The View Rockdale – Wogdale, Rockslavia, Rock-a-dale Rooty Hill – Rootin’ Hill, Shagger’s Reach Rose Bay – Nose Bay Roseville – Poseville Seven Hills – Seven Ills, Sevo Shire – aka The Bubble, The Burbs Smithfield – shitfield Southie – Anyone from southern suburbs St Albans – Snalbs St Ives – Snives, South Africa St Peter’s – St Pierre, Spitters Strathfield – Straddy Surry Hills – Slurry Hills, Surr-eye Heighst, Scurvy Hills, Scruffy Hills, Boystown, Sorry Hills Sydney – Steak and Kidney, The Big Smoke, Shitney Tamarama – Glamarama The Badlands – anywhere east of Glenbrook and west of Parramatta The Entrance – Blacktown by the Sea (see also Central Coast) The Shire – God’s country (Shire – anywhere west of Sutherland was BankieShire) Thirroul – The Rule Toongabbie – Toonscabbie , Toonie Turramurra – Turra, Tuzza Vaucluse – For Jews, Foreclose Villawood – Villainwood Wakehurst Parkway – Wanker’s Parkway Wallerawang – Wang, The Wang Warriewood – Woggywood, Worrywood Watson’s Bay – Watto Bay Wentworth Falls – Wenty Wentworthville – Wenny Westie – anyone from the western suburbs Wetherill Park – Where-the-hell-park Willoughby – Wogabee Winston Hills – Wife Swapper’s Ridge Wollongong – The Gong Woolloomooloo – The Loo
SYDNEY PLACE NAMES AND THEIR HISTORY
THE BAY OF BISCAY
This is now the small lake at Sydney University of Parramatta and City Roads. It got its name because of the number of bullock drays that got bogged there.
THE HELP THE MAN THROUGH THE WORLD INN
Owned by Mr Stephenson in the 1850s, the hotel was on Glebe Rd and its sign showed the figure of a man through a globe of the world.
THE HUNGRY MILE
The strip between Walsh Bay and Pyrmont Bridge was known as the ‘Hungry Mile’ during the Great depression of 1930. Men, woman and children, mostly waiting for sustenance be it light work, ration cards or the soup line, assembled here and some even lived in makeshift accommodation.
NO GO ZONE
Custom of a bell being rung at 6pm on the corner of College and Oxford streets, Paddington, as a warning that females should not venture into the suburb after dark. This possibly had something to do with the fact that the suburb was the home of Victoria Army Barracks.
THE CAFE FRANCAIS
.(in George Street) iwas much frequented by the young swells and sprigs of the city. They held here a chess club, a billiard club, and a tweed-kidney club. Little marble tables, files of Punch and the ‘Times’, dominoes, sherry cobblers, strawberry ices, an entertaining hostess, and a big, bloused, lubberly, inoffensive host, were the noticeable points of the Cafe. They served 800 dinners a day.
THE SYDNEY TURKISH BATHS
The Sydney Turkish Baths were extremely popular as a remedial opportunity and, seemingly more important, as a source of gossip.
Future advertisement showed it was still there in 1889.
SLAVE MARKET
The Bells Hotel, Woolloomooloo, where maritime storemen and packers were hired. This hotel was originally known as the Three Bells and colloquially as the Bunch of Cunts.
THE THREE WEEDS
Hotels called the Rose, Shamrock and Thistle were inevitably called the Three Weeds.
OPERATION PARK
The Bondi Beach Esplanade because of the elderly people who daily promenade there.
DOUCHE-CAN ALLEY
Kings Cross Road.
MOSSIE
A Mosman resident.
THE BARBECUE BELT
A reference to the leafy northern suburbs of Sydney.
STORMTROOPER ALLEY
Kings Cross at the Victoria Street end.
POVERTY POINT
Corner of Park and Pitt streets, Sydney.
ROOTY HILL
Reference to Kings Cross (root a sin sexual act) although Rooty Hill is actually a western Sydney suburb.
LARPY
Colloquial name for la Perouse residents
HAIR BUILDINGS
The hair of horse, cattle and goats was used to strengthen the mortar of early Sydney buildings. Many of the women from the Female factory at Parramatta also sold their hair to builders.
RHODA RODE TO RYDE
Rhoda rode to Ryde
To ride by road she tried
She had a spill
Upon a hill
But ride to Ryde
She said “I will”
She found a rowing boat
Down by the old sea side
So Rhoda didn’t ride by road
But Rhoda rowed to Ryde
SOURCE
Lorna Corbett, 1984. Fahey Collection
Nonsense verse.
Little Doodydossity
Little Doodydossity full of curiosity,
Went to see the Coogee grass grow
At the bottom of the sea
He filled his boots with lead,
Tied a ladder to his head,
And swore beyond his whiskers –
What a diver he would be.
I went out in the boat with him,
I saw him take a leap,
The blades came up to the top
But Topsy wasn’t there.
I’ve just come away from the inquest,
I’ve just wiped a tear from my eye,
I’ve just spent the bob that he gave me for the job.
And I’ll meet him in the quiet bye and bye.
The Tattooed Lady has several variants (see Woolloomooloo for more)
A TATTOOED LADY
I paid a bob to see the beautiful tattooed lady
She was tattooed from neck to knee
And what a sight to see
Twas beautiful, just out of reach, she had Bondi Beach,
And over one kidney a picture of North Sydney
And a big Union Jack on the small of her back
And right across her chest the sun was sinking in the West
I couldn’t wait to see the rest so I had to give it best
– It was beautiful.
SOURCE
MRS G.J CURRY. Bardwell Park. Fahey Collection
MRS J FAIRHALL Blakehurst NSW
NEW SOUTH WALES (NSW) – SYDNEY OBSERVATIONS
Portahomes
Sydney from earliest time had portable houses that were wheeled to new suburbs. Poor people lived in these portahomes.
Silent Night
It is said Sir Edward Hallstrom heard a young girl singing the carol. He named his new refrigerator after the song.
Reported Woman’s day June 1957
HEADS OF THE PEOPLE
1848 periodical
May Day was ushered in with the usual festivity. The murky sons and daughters of the soot bag, with their faces and handed washed, and their outward furniture glittering like a rainbow, attended by fife and drum, danced through the streets of Sydney to the delight of many a native. There are but few chimney sweeps in Sydney; but of sweeps of another sort, not clean-handed, there are too many; and we could not help thinking that if they were all decorated and dancing through the streets, we would have considerably more sweeps than chimneys.
SYDNEY POST OFFICE CLOCK
Smh May 4 1891
Cast in England in 1890 “the castings have come out remarkably successful, possessing very rich tone, especially the 5-ton tenor bell. Its fine, full resonance being greatly admired. Canon Cattley (Worchester Cathedral who blessed it) expressed high approval. He said they are certainly the best bells ever sent out of England. The first quarter bell is 2ft 9in in diameter, the note C sharp, and weight 81/2 cwt.; the second, 3ft in diameter, B 111/4cwt; the third, 3ft 4 in diameter, A 143/4 cwt., the fourth, 4ft 4in in diameter, E 30cwt, and the tenor bell, 6ft 6in in diameter, A weighing 5 tons. Each bell has the imperial crown and monogram VIR with the words ‘General Post Office, Sydney 1890.
The following lines from Tennyson’s ‘In Memoriam’ are inscribed on the bells, one line on each, commencing with the largest.
Ring out the false, ring in the true
Ring out the feud of rich and poor
Ring in redress to all mankind
Ring out false pride in place and blood
Ring in the common love of good
Cast by John Taylor of Loughborough designs by lord Grimthorpe.
The initials of Henry Parkes also appear H P
Epitaph St John’s Parramatta
Grave of Benjamin Burrow
View me all you that pass by
As you are now once was I
But as I am so you must be
Prepare yourself to follow me.
To which someone added
To follow you I’ll not consent
I am not sure which way you went!
REMINISCENCES OF ANNA FRANCES WALKER
Recorded 1905.
1830-1913 was daughter of Commissary Thomas Walker,
his wife, ANA, daughter of John Blaxland.
Tom Walker’s happiest days were spent at Rhodes Hall, with his two bachelor cousins, the de Brokes, who, being too poor to marry, remained in bachelorhood. Here at Christmastime, as in other old-fashioned homes, the wassail cup, which was a large silver one, was passed round amongst the guests, and the mummers came into the kitchen.
General and Mrs. M were an amusing couple. Rumour said he was a very bad tempered man and was in the habit of speaking roughly to his lady, so it was arranged between them that when he was in his study and she wished to ask him a question, she would go to the door and throw in her bonnet. If he were in good humour he would let it be, but if a bad one he would kick it out!
SINGING AROUND THE WORLD
Memoirs of David Kennedy
London 1887
Book.
David Kennedy was a well-known Scottish singer born 1825 and toured Australia 1873
SMOKING PIPES
F Fowler 1859
The ‘cutty’ is of all shapes, sizes and shades. Some are Negro heads, set with rows of very white teeth – some are mermaids, showing their more presentable halves up the front of the bowls, and stowing away their weedy fundaments under the items. Some are Turkish caps – some are Russian skulls. Some are Houris, some are expressions of the French, some are Margaret Catchpoles. Some are as small as my lady’s thimble – others as large as an old Chelsea teacup. Everybody has one, from the little pinafored schoolboy to the old veteran who came out with the second batch of convicts. A cutty-bowl, like a Creole’s eye, is most prized when blackest. Tobacco, I should add here, is seldom sold in a cut form, Each man carries a cake about with him, like a card case; each boy has his stick of Cavendish, like so much candy. The cigars usually smoked are manilas, which are as cheap and good as can be met with in any part of the world. Lola Montez, during her Australian tour, spoke well of them. What stronger puff could they have than hers?
What first took my attention in Sydney, after I had sufficiently recovered from the bites of mosquitoes to show myself in public, was the air of well-to-do-ness, which characterized every thing about me. The carriages passing through the streets were quiet and elegant; the people were well and soberly dressed; the cabs on the ranks looked more like private carriages than public conveyances; even the cabmen swore and swaggered less, and chinked their money more – having, I suppose, more money to chink – than I ever noticed the fraternity chink, swagger and swear elsewhere. It was London in good spirits, as if every man had tuned up a nugget or two in his back garden.
(this was when I arrived: when I left, the roseate light had somewhat mellowed.
J R Godley – 1853:
We observed nothing very remarkable in our walk, except that there were two tamed Emus at the gate of the Domain, which the soldiers at the guardhouse were feeding with bread, and all the people, especially the women, whom we met, seemed to be smartly dressed.
J Askew – 1857:
Goats are also very frequent in Sydney, but more especially in Sussex Street, where they may be constantly seen bounding about, with their kids bleating and skipping after them.
THE GREENWAY DOCUMENTS
MSQ397 AUSTRALIAN CHRONOLOGY
Francis Greenway (Architect)
1825 Dixson private manuscripts and letters.
The Greenway documents tell of Sydney street names, Sydney characters and also of his personal fight with the Government over fees.
- In the chronology he mentions the death of John Justice who was the colony’s Town Watch for 11 years. Died 27/04/1804
- William (Billy) Blue is advertised as the Port’s only licensed Waterman –
2/8/04 - Under 16/8/07 he details how jams Underwood, Henry Kable and Sam Lord were sentenced to a month in gaol for sending Governor Bligh an insulting letter.
- Under 1/12/1810 he provides the original street names at the time of changeover:
High St
aka Old Spring Row
aka Sgt Major’s Row George St Windmill Row Prince Barrack St York Pitt’s Row PittChapel Row Castlereagh Back Row East PhillipBell St HunterBell RowBligh
- It was also at the time that Hyde Park was so named. It was originally The Common, Exercising Ground, Cricket Ground and Race Course
- The Main Sydney Court was built on public subscription.
- 20/2/1819 The Macquarie Place obelisk was completed by Edward Cureton who was paid forty-five pounds.
- 21/4/24 Dollars and Dumps. ‘We understand the pierced dollars, with their children the dumps, now safely lodged in the Military Chest, amount to about five thousand pound sterling. What is their destination has not yet transpired, but we believe the pierced gentlemen are not to be permitted to resume their travels in the Colony.’
- 15/05/1830 The corner of Kent and King street was commonly known as ‘Dust Hole Run’ – being a very steep slope to the cliffs at the waters edge where refuse is dumped.’
- 19/11/34 The New South Wales Temperance Society held its first public meeting on the 17th – 200 souls present. It was called for 7pm about which time a heavy thunderstorm commenced which lasted two hours’.
Greenway had a very public fight with Major General Macquarie over the architectural agreement. The following is an extract from a FG letter.
The town of Sydney, in the course of a few years, will most likely extend round Woolloomooloo by Surry Hills to Anson’s Point and join the land of Captain Piper. If we are not crippled by the narrow and contemptible notions of false economists, which proves more destructive to society than ever extravagance with all its evils, real economy I admire, because it is only another name for liberality, which defines every ‘private individual’, and is the basis of the real glory and success of every nation.
Greenway was given 800 acres of land as ‘remuneration for his service’ however Greenway claimed this ‘a mockery that wouldn’t even cover his travel expenses of 150 pounds. The land was at Coal River – near Newcastle.
OUR ANTIPODES
Ltn Col. Godfrey Charles Mundy
1852
Published in 3 volumes, London
“A man must be leading in Europe a very sad, solitary or unsatisfactory existence, who can, without many a pang of regret, many a sigh of painful separation, gird up his loins, shoulder his wallet, and clutch his staff, for a pilgrimage to Australia.”
“That picturesque animal, the goat, by-the-by forms a conspicuous item of the Sydney street menagerie – amounting to a pest little less dire than the plague of dogs. Nearly every cottage has its goat or family of goats. They ramble about the highways and by-ways, picking up a haphazard livelihood during the day, and going home willingly or compulsorily in the evening to be milked.
Bread 4p
Fowls 2/6 or 3/- for a pair
Turkeys 7/–9/-
Bottled English beer – 14/- a dozen.
Mention is also made of Van Diemen’s Land hay
The day-labourer of Sydney are notoriously idle, drunken, and dissolute. Earning 3/- or 4/- a day, they will work perhaps four out of the seven, and during the remainder squander their gains in drink and riot, leaving their wretched families to fend themselves as they can.
MEMENTOS OF OLD SYDNEY
scrapbook with clippings and hand-written entries.
1830
The Cabbage-Tree Mob
There are to be found all round the doors of the Sydney Theatre a sort of loafer known as the Cabbage-Tree Mob. The Cabbage-Tree Mob, are always up for a ‘spree’ and some of their pastimes are so rough an order as to deserve to be repaid with bloody coxcombs.”
Female factory
One of the great yards of the factory was devoted to laundress work. Squads of women were up their elbows in suds – carrying on the cruel process of wringing. The townsfolk may have their washing done here at 1/6 per dozen, the money going to the expenses of the institution.>
Street Cry
Stich, stich, stich,
In poverty, hunger and dirt,
Sewing at once with a double thread
A shroud as well as a shirt.
Mention is made of a storm known as ‘The Southerly Burster’ (his spelling)
Oysters were extremely popular. ‘Every inch of rock from Sydney to the Heads is thickly colonized by the delicate shellfish that is, every inch would be so peopled, but for the active extermination incessantly going on”
SMELLY OLD SYDNEY – “ON THE NOSE”
© Warren Fahey 20009
Old Sydney had a stink about it that many baby boomers will no doubt remember. Some smells were definitely, as the old-timers used to say, ‘on the bugle’, and others full of delight and intrigue.
Firstly allow me to offer a warning to my fellow boomers: sad to say but a scary loss of smell (and taste) occurs normally with aging. This is mainly due to a degeneration of the nerves that control smell but modern lifestyle also throws the dice: nasal and sinus problems, certain medications, cigarette smoking and even head injury can also contribute to your snout’s ability to smell effectively. Once you hit fifty it’s all down hill for your olfactory nerves and taste buds, and by eighty, you’ve reduced both by half.
Come with me on a nostalgic tour of old Sydney and sniff the pongs that were high on the olfactometer register.
I spent a good deal of my youth living at Ramsgate, on Botany Bay, and if forced to nominate one single smell from those days it would be the hot potato chips sold at the Ramsgate saltwater swimming baths known by us kids as ‘Pem’s Piss Pools’. Arthur ‘Pop’ Pemberton opened the complex in 1924 and ran it for forty-five years combining swimming pools, dance venue and, believe it or not, a mini zoo. The chips, and we never called them fries, always had the accompanying smell of wombat, dingo, roo and monkey poo. They tasted delicious and were my earliest memory of takeaway food.
In those days Botany Bay hadn’t turned to sludge. ‘Bing-eye’, the local fisherman, and his family trawled most mornings and would display their catch on the beach. Dad and I, refreshed from an early morning swim , often bought bream or flathead for breakfast. The smell of fresh fish frying is hard to beat. You wouldn’t dare eat anything from Botany Bay today.
The big stink night of the year was May 24th, ‘Bonfire’, ‘Cracker’ or ‘Guy Fawkes’ Night, celebrated around Empire Day. We hauled wheelbarrows of inflammable crap up to the beach on Grand Parade and competed to see which street could mount the highest bonfire. We guarded it night and day so the ‘enemy’ didn’t pinch anything or, worse still, set it alight. Old tyres stank the most and sent up piles of horrid black smoke. It was the firecrackers themselves that we really smelt. It seemed to us that each one had a particular and distinctive smell. Double Bungers were the loudest and smelliest and Jumping Jacks smelt of gunpowder, or so we thought. Catherine Wheels were considered woosy, Tom Thumbs rat-a-tat-tat noisy and Roman Candles and Fairy Wands smelt like old farts.
Going to the corner store was also an olfactory expedition. There were very few delicatessens but there were plenty of ‘Ham and Beef’ shops. These peculiar outlets were glorified sandwich shops where all sausages were called ‘garlic sausage’ despite having hardly any garlic. Devon, mortadella and ‘fancy’ ham were sliced and eaten with Kameruka or Coon cheese on ‘tank’ loaf (because it was shaped like a water tank) or Vienna ‘high top’ slices of white bread. Strong-smelling mustard pickles were a must!
One of Sydney’s sweetest smells came from the inner-city suburb of Camperdown where, bounded by Parramatta Road, Lyons Road and Pyrmont Bridge Road, from 1891 several biscuit manufacturers ‘baked on the premises’. The most famous was Weston’s, makers of the famous ‘Wagon Wheel’ and ‘Chocolate Wheaten’, who moved there in 1951. A mere suburb away, in Balmain, your nose would have itched with the all-invading stench of soapsuds manufacturer Lever and Kitchen.
When I was a young lad my big sister often took me to Maroubra beach. My job was to walk half a mile to the small shopping strip and order takeaway lunch – usually three or four baked rabbits, depending how many were in the days surfing safari. I can still smell that shop and those stringy, gamey rabbits prepared with oregano by an elderly man known as ‘Peter the Greek’. I had hardly seen a Greek let alone tasted oregano. This was in the fifties when roasted chicken only appeared on very special occasions, like Christmas or birthdays.
It wasn’t until the early 1960s that I smelt a real delicatessen . My mother often took me to the monumental Anthony Hordern’s department store in Goulburn Street, Sydney, to shop and, if I was lucky, to the top floor cafeteria, where there were more smells than you could poke a fork at. Around the corner in Hay Street, near the wonderful Capitol Theatre, was Cyril’s Delicatessen. Opened in 1959 this cornucopia of European delight sent my nose whirling. Here I smelt smoked salmon with dill, pickled herring, exotic stinky cheese and strings of sausages that looked like nothing I had ever seen or tasted. There was also black sour bread with caraway seeds – the reason for my Jewish mother’s visit. Cyril’s is still in the same place, still smells wonderfully European, and still worth a visit. The David Jones store Food Hall was another bewildering experience for my nosey nose as I sniffed a cavalcade that included pastries, seafood, smoked meats, cheese, cakes and groceries. Later on one of those darned American-styled ‘cookies baked on the spot’ arrived and their sickly sweet smell took over most of the basement.
Another city destination was Nock and Kirby’s store on George Street. I think my mother had a thing about Joe the Gadget Man, who was quite a Sydney celebrity. The smell of this gigantic emporium of hardware was overwhelming. I sniffed nails, paints, strange woodwork tools and bibs and bobs whose function bewildered me. It was then on to The House of Hoffnung, an old fashioned wholesaler of everything and anything. They sold tobacco, golf balls, Manchester and 78 rpm recordings – and everything in between and spanned a retail history from 1852 to 1952.
The most intoxicating smell came from the window of the old Coles store in the city near King Street. It had a donut machine that was straight out of Willy Wonka as it scooped up batter and plunked them into boiling oil and we stared gob smacked as the submerged donuts sprang to life and floated merrily queuing on a metal conveyor belt headed for their multi-coloured icing. I often wonder where this extraordinary contraption ended its life. The sweetness of the donut counter followed us down the street and into our dreams.
Other city smells high on the register were the two men’s clothing stores Palmer’s (‘Palmers Will Suit You’) and the very posh Peape’s near Wynyard. Strong textile smells mixed with cigar and pipe smoke as men with bristle moustaches and blue shirts with button braces whispered, “Are you being served?”
Central Railway station was also a smelly place. Steam, fuelled by mountains of black coal, hissed and spurted along the station tracks and smelt absolutely intoxicating with its promise of travel to Terrigal, Goulburn and the Blue Mountains. In the station there was another delight under the massive sign ‘Railway Refreshment Room’. This cafeteria-style restaurant was always full of country bumpkins, over-dressed city folk and uncomfortable, rowdy children. The food was exciting for kids including the famous round railway pies, sausage rolls that looked like small house bricks, red and green jelly trifle, and the smell of strange coffee made with chicory.
Back home in Ramsgate we lived in Pasadena Street between Monterey and Hollywood Streets (I think the Town Planner had been to Los Angeles!). These were the last days of horse-drawn door-to-door deliveries where ‘John the Chinaman’ delivered fruit and vegetables so fresh the smell of celery, tomatoes and radish jumped out at you. As kids we had all been involved in ‘raids’ on the local Scarborough Park and nearby Brighton-le-Sands Chinese gardens. We squiggled down muddy canals, past cabbages and celery until we reached the holy grail – carrots – which we grabbed and hot-footed it – out of there before the Chinese gardeners sprayed us with saltpetre bullets. Carrots never smelt or tasted sweeter. Incidentally, my father, probably to dissuade us kids from our attacks on the Chinese gardens, always told us that they used ‘night soil’ on their vegetables. It took me quite a while to work out what ‘night soil’ actually was.
For children raised chanting disgusting rhymes like ‘Captain Cook’ this probably is par for the course.
Captain Cook did a poop,
Behind the kitchen door,
His brother came and ate it up,
Then he did some more.
And there were rotten smells. I’m not sure where the colloquial expression Dutch Oven originated but all kids raised in the fifties will know it refers to that dreadful game where everyone farts under a blanket to see who can stay under the longest! And when someone broke wind the common response was: “Who flung dung?”
It is not surprising that one of our most interesting smellathons came with the annual Royal Easter Show when it was staged at Moore Park. We would run from cows to horses, chooks to pigs, pinching our noses yelling which one smelt the worst. The old showground also offered some wonderful aromas and none could beat the smell of the Tasmanian Brownell Potato Chip outlet or the Showbag Hall which simply screamed out ‘Sugar!” Sydney Showground also hosted seasons of stockcar racing on Saturday nights and the grimy exhaust smoke melded finely with the aroma of saveloys and tomato sauce that, for the curious, were not called hot dogs!
Back at Ramsgate the baker delivered daily and the smell wafting from his van was always magical, especially when the Easter hot cross buns arrived. The baker’s arrival was usually marred by my father loudly yelling, “Quick Warren!” and I knew to race with the sugar bag and shovel, chase the horse and cart, collecting the precious manure for our garden, before my chief manure competitor, Mrs O’Connell scooped it up. These were hard times for a kid.
As an older, adventurous young lad my nose led me on a merry dance through the streets of Sydney. Rowe Street’s Lincoln Coffee Shop, a favourite bohemian haunt, and nearby Penguin Bookshop were intriguing but the old Adyar Bookshop next door to the Bligh Street Art Cinema was overwhelming with incense befitting a shop that had books on fairies, astral travelling and pictures of Krishnamurti and Madame Blavatski. It was quite some years before I encountered a bookshop with so much characteristic smell and that was Bob Gould’s Goulburn Street emporium where hundreds of thousands of books precariously hung to the walls threatening to topple down on innocent readers, and the ever-present Gould, resplendid in his Bombay Bloomer floppy shorts and braces, surrounded by the smell of mostly dead people’s books.
When older I was obviously no wiser as I followed my nose into some dubious eating establishments. Repin’s Coffee Shop near Wynyard was a regular meeting place for my friends before we went to the Youth Hostels Association meetings in Clarence Street. Repin’s, a small chain, had an espresso machine before they were common. It was always “Cappuccino and Black Forest Cake”; both smelt very adult. Next were visits to the Cahill’s chain of theme restaurants: Dutch Inn, Bavarian Hofbauer House, Tudor Inn, Swiss Inn and a strange tropical island theme that I never quite understood. The food and accompanying smells I did understand since the menus were essentially the same with staff in different uniforms. A schnitzel is a schnitzel whatever you call it. Far better dining was available on ‘Greek Street’, as Elizabeth Street opposite Hyde Park was known. The Minerva was my favourite and, in the 1960s, I would sit down to aromatic stews and roasts full of garlic and oregano, strong-smelling fetta (which they served with Kalamata olives and a whole quartered onion) and finish with rose water infused custards. Delicious. The Hellenic Club offered similar delights and is still there with similar dishes.
Chinatown had enticing smells too. The old Dixon Street strip was so exotic with smells that confused red glossy roasted ducks with weird drain stench, fresh market greens with strange bundles of pungent herbs. This was heady stuff for any adventurer. One favourite was the Malaya Restaurant when it was on George Street and resembled a railway tunnel, complete with brown walls and enough spicy smells to tease any appetite.
When I eventually moved back to Paddington in the late nineteen sixties, the nearby suburb of Darlinghurst had a peculiar smell that took me some time to nasally navigate – it was the Sergeant’s Pie Factory. A massive complex on Liverpool Street, this was the home of those then familiar round pies beloved of genuine Aussie pie eaters. Rich in gravy and chewy meat these pies smelt heavenly, as did their factory. I was born in Paddington and lived there most of my working life. It had a history of smells, mostly unpleasant, that reflected its terraced housing with outdoor dunnies, which were too close for comfort, and its past as a centre for small industry. The overriding smell up the Paddington nose in the fifties and early sixties was, like much of the inner city, that of coke – the black fuel – not the white stuff. Bags of coke were delivered into the suburb for heating and hot water systems and the stench permeated the surrounding suburbs.
Another local smell was burnt snags and steak for this was the grand period of the 1960s and 70s when Paddo’s pubs had beer gardens open to the sky, and cooking your own meat on the pub’s BBQ was almost a sport. You’d buy your steak, snags and chops and compete with two-dozen other determined ‘self cookers’. Great fun but all banished (along with jazz, poetry and folk music) when the hotels went all posh, closed in their gardens to make ‘restaurant dining areas’ and installed dull-sounding recorded music. And if that didn’t stink I don’t know what does!
Most of these old Sydney smells have disappeared up exhaust fans or been replaced by even nastier smelling chemically charged room deodorisers. The smells are gone but the memories linger on.